Jump to content
SAU Community

Secret Plan To Fit 'remote Stopping' Devices To Cars

chus13

By chus13,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

chus13 Community Regular

chus13

Posted
Posted

Just found this as I was perusing the web. Thought it would be very interesting to get peoples takes on the matter.

"The European Union is secretly developing a "remote stopping" device that would be fitted to all cars and allow police to disable vehicles at the flick of a switch.

Confidential documents from a committee of senior EU police officers, who meet in secret, set out the plan as part of wider law enforcement surveillance and tracking measures.

"The project will work on a technological solution that can be a 'build in standard' for all cars that enter the European market," said the document."

http://news.drive.com.au/drive/motor-news/secret-plan-to-fit-remote-stopping-devices-to-cars-20140130-31nxw.html?utm_source=outbrain&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=outbrain_amplify

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

If there is a system that can remotely stop cars at will, there will be two major issues to consider.

  1. It can be disabled, so if people really want to get rid of it, they will.
  2. If it is remotely operated, that means the system can by hacked and someone from the public can therefore stop cars at will and cause mayhem.

Somehow I don't think this will happen.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

^^ agreed. The number of trucks doing more than 100 makes it obvious that efforts to install "big brother" devices in vehicles simply doesn't work.

http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/truck-drivers-arms-race-frustrates-police-20130908-2te2b.html

Having said that, external devices like safety cam and average speed cameras makes it hard for them to bend the law significantly.

Rather than fitting remote stopping devices, how about catching them and beating the shit out of them before leaving them to rot in jail? I have no sympathy for those who run from the police but removing the ability for us to choose between right and wrong just makes us all prisoners of "the system" by default.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • No Crust Racing
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By No Crust Racing · Posted

      Can't remember the last time I saw a good, healthy battery dropping into the 9s during cranking,  Too many variables to say anything about it with any certainty though.  A float voltage of 12-12.2 is tired AF and given how AGMs handle high C rate and DOD, will just die faster and faster with each cold start.   
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I find most vehicles dip into the mid to high 9 volt range, even with a good battery. Hitting the low 9s, and especially hitting into the 8s is pretty indicative of a dieing battery. The other part to look at is the battery voltage after the battery has been fully charged. They should be sitting at 12.8V, as lead acids are dieing, they head down low and lower. Often getting as low as 12.0 - 12.2. You'll start seeing this when the engine is cranking over slowly. Interestingly, depending on the vehicle, when batteries get really bad, you can see some REALLY funky things going on. From very low voltages, to higher than 16V too. Something I totally didn't expect! This part of the super low and super high voltages I've been seeing on motorbikes, I need to do some further studies on cars. I suspect cars will act a little bit different though for a couple of reasons.
    • soviet_merlin
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks! Supercheap has a sale on this weekend so might be a good opportunity to get a new one. I do have a decent multimeter so I'll give it a try either way.   Hah, you got me! I do not. All I know is that the battery holds charge and sits at an okay level before I start the car. Doing the full charge and rejuvenation cycle on a trickle-charger seems to not really make a difference to the cold start behaviour. I'll try and measure it during cranking and see what it does. It's likely terrible; it certainly feels terrible.  I'll be happy if it is really just the battery and I don't have to dick around with the alternator or starter motor.
    • No Crust Racing
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By No Crust Racing · Posted

      how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • GTSBoy
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
×
×
  • Create New...