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Ever heard it said before that our cars only deserve the best & that Car Washes should be neutral pH?

Detailers say that one should never use dishwashing detergent because of its pH right?

Well, I got to thinking about this > bought myself a pH meter thus,...

pH_zps5caa8147.jpg

In Blue Mtns air, the meter reads 7.0

In Blue Mtns tap water, the meter reads 6.6

Throughout this thread so far, the Car Washes tested (in order) are...

* 5 Star Wash n Wax from The Reject Shop

* Polyglaze AutoWash Gel

* Meguiar's Gold Class

* Mothers California Gold

* FW1

* Meguiar's Ultimate Wash n Wax

You're welcome to read on and comment!

Are you surprised?

I mean, neutral pH for a Car Wash should be in the range between 6.0-8.0 right?

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Good Q.

I washed the pH probe in a bucket of water in between each reading Anthony > wiped it down > went to the next Car Wash...

As I looked at the pH probe whilst in the water, it would continually read 6.6; so you'd be correct in thinking that any Car Wash which is in the proximity of 6.6 will stay about the same > any that has a pH of less than 5 for example will be diluted somewhat, and read closer to 6...

For example, Concentrated Hydrochloric Acid has a lower pH than Diluted Hydrochloric Acid (aka Muriatic Acid).

Good Q.

I washed the pH probe in a bucket of water in between each reading Anthony > wiped it down > went to the next Car Wash...

As I looked at the pH probe whilst in the water, it would continually read 6.6; so you'd be correct in thinking that any Car Wash which is in the proximity of 6.6 will stay about the same > any that has a pH of less than 5 for example will be diluted somewhat, and read closer to 6...

For example, Concentrated Hydrochloric Acid has a lower pH than Diluted Hydrochloric Acid (aka Muriatic Acid).

Interesting. seems some of them are a bit out. quite a bit acidic there. Great info thanks Terry! I might have to get my Meguairs Nxt Gen car wash tested!

It won't matter once mixed with water. Typical recommendations are one cupful per bucket so in the end you will end up with a tiny amount t of shampoo to water ratio. More important is lubricity of the product and it's ability to clean without stripping wax or sealant on the surface of the paint

Thanks for helping me back onto a learning curve again junkie, as I'd not heard of lubricity before.

I presume it's a mechanism whereby there becomes a reduction of "surface tension"?

In that case, dishwashing detergent would also have high lubricity qualities, but if so,...

* why is it recommended that you don't use ordinary dishwashing detergent?

* how does it strip wax and sealant, and yet car wash detergents do not?

* why do detailers and car care product sellers mostly refer to pH balance?

Thanks in advance for assisting me...

So how does the old Morning Fresh stack up Tez?

interesting that FW1 actually faired pretty well considering the bad wrap it gets...I still often use dishwashing liquid pre polishing only, it does the job and its cheap and plentiful...something like ct18 is better though..however on cars I have full detailed with sealants, waxes etc the dishwashing liquid never goes near them again....there is better products that add to what you have already put down and others that will strip it...

Oh Dear...

I was hoping no-one would ask me that!

My wife has umpteen detergents around here > but now you ask...

I shall grab one tomorrow!

FW1 has that disadvantage that grime and grit will abrade physically, the wax, the sealant and the clear.

I've found it useful for taking off exhaust residue (after washing the car); which reminds me lol...

For a major detail, I use dishwashing liquid for the first 'major' wash - before I commence the clay bar phase.

Dishwashing liquid does wonders to 'strip' existing wax and grime. I use AMMO foam (Ph neutral/balanced soap) for lube when I clay the car.

For a normal wash AMMO is fairly soft and won't really strip your protective layers, but I use 350gsm microfiber towels for the wash for picking up/removing grime etc (however, I will fold over the towel multiple times so I don't drag grit across the paint).

yeah, its basically what a decent quality car wash will do, provide a lubricated layer between your paint and whatever you wash your car with, helping to minimise swirling and "suspending" dirt particles

ph ratings mainly apply to strong chemicals like wheel cleaners, as some use acid based ingredients and others will use strong alkaline ingredients and you really need to know where to apply a certain product without harming the surface...

as far as dishwashing liquid goes, its basically a degreaser and wax is an "oily" coating on the surface. by that i mean, only the really expensive stuff will be made with a high content of real carnauba wax and everything else will have some kind of petroleum product in it, mixed with wax to make the stuff cheaper to produce and aid the application process. however, some new sealants will probably be a lot more resistant to dishwasher liquid

Edited by junkie

yeah, its basically what a decent quality car wash will do, provide a lubricated layer between your paint and whatever you wash your car with, helping to minimise swirling and "suspending" dirt particles

"Surfactant" process?

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