Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

This is kinda a last resort sort of thing.

Background info on the car: C34 S2 Stagea, RWD Auto, Front mount, Pod, Nistune, 550cc Injectors, Walbro 255L, Kinugawa upgraded standard turbo.

My stagea has had startup issues for sometime now, originally it was the cold start which i had the tuner sort out (would take 2,3,4 goes at cranking to get it to start). Now, im having issues with the warm/hot start. Sometimes it kicks over after a second or 2, other times it will take a few goes and by then the battery runs out of juice and needs the aid of a jump start to crank over. Thinking about it as i have over the last few months, i assumed it was a battery/voltage issue as when the car wont crank and the battery depletes, if i use the jump starter, it kicks over first go. I had the mechanic check the battery and he seems to think its ok. Could it be a case of this? something sucking the juice during startup? How would i compare if i measure voltage at startup with a multimeter to make a comparison?

Or could it be something to do with the tune again?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439151-stagea-startup-dramas/
Share on other sites

Battery sounds like it is stuffed but I have had some minor hot start issues with the Stagea for years.

Presumably it is the AAC but it seems to be clean and I cbf trying any harder to really sort it out since it always starts even if it takes a longer crank.

A battery shop should be able to test your alternator output and if that is ok get a new battery. Actually ideally they can test your starter draw as well and if that is excessive your starter motor is on the way out.

Often battery tests only show if your cells are dead (voltage drop) you need to check cca cold cranking Amps of the battery with a digital test .

If comes up good like the wolverine says look at ya acc ,

Might add, starter has only been rebuilt less than 3 months ago, im assuming it met an early death because it was cranking heaps.

So points to check:

Battery CCA

Alternator - Output

ACC Valve

The missus is on my case as its her daily, and more often than not its her that gets stuck. When its warm/hot, you can litterly crank it for only about 7-8 secs collectively before the battery flattens

Just swap the battery, if you jump it and it fires, it's pretty obvious the battery capacity is ruined. (happens regularly if you let them go dead flat, even once.)

Why are you cranking for 7 seconds though? Perhaps the voltage is so low the coils won't fire properly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...