Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So did you push the car through some corners? Understand if you didn't as its not your car ;) On tighter tracks an evo is leagues ahead. On a more open track the Big R will lay waste to an evo HP pending of course lol

I did and it does. Though my car is pretty much set up properly as well.

Edited by Mick_o

As an owner of 3 Emos previously (6, 7 & an 8) and now have an R33 GTR I'd say go the GTR! But... and it's a big butt:

You need deep pockets to run a GTR as they have huge weight & power & that equals many sets of tyres & brakes. Plus they arent cheap to fix/maintain full stop.

The Evo's only ever lasted 6 months & I got bored. the 6 speed gearbox made the 8 so much better than the 6 & 7 I had but the handling was still 1 dimensional & boring on a track. However, on the road the Evos are more playful & more fun for it than the GTR by miles! The GTR feels too big & slow to respond...

Not sure I've helped here...

My work is done.

Not at all lol

The car will be mainly used for track duties with the odd occasion of going for a cruise. Ive come to the conclusion that I need to just go and drive a couple, I'm sure one will jump out at me more then the rest.

Ordinary is that your GTR videos on YouTube ?? Ordinarydriver ??? I assume it is.

The only thing that sways me to a EVO is the cost of running and mechanical strength at the track. Cheaper to run, cheaper to fix and just as quick.

But then again GTR's seem pretty bullet proof upto 250awkw, besides the oil starvation issue at the track and filling upto the bump in the stick seems to fix that problem.

Last thing I want is to spend around 20k on a car then need to spend another 10k on an engine rebuild in a year or so. This is where the Evo seems to have the edge in reliability. But then again anything can happen at the track.

The only thing that sways me to a EVO is the cost of running and mechanical strength at the track. Cheaper to run, cheaper to fix and just as quick.

But then again GTR's seem pretty bullet proof upto 250awkw, besides the oil starvation issue at the track and filling upto the bump in the stick seems to fix that problem.

Last thing I want is to spend around 20k on a car then need to spend another 10k on an engine rebuild in a year or so. This is where the Evo seems to have the edge in reliability. But then again anything can happen at the track.

How much have you tracked before if you don't mind me asking?

A stock gtr vs stock evo umm yes an evo is leagues ahead. .. A Stock GTR is a nugget ;)

Only cos Nissan got lazy and sat on their asses. Look at the incremental development with the evo over the years and compare that to the GTR. An R34 isn't that much better over an R32.

& of course your 9 is a couple generations younger than even the latest model R34.

Evo doesn't hold a candle to a GTR in terms of road presence too.

Dollar for dollar though, evo does win hands down. A 20k evo 8 would go a lot better round a track than a 20k 32GTR.

I 100% agree with that mate nothing says gtfo of my way like a GTR does on the road and on the track too! :D

I might be slightly biased to an evo owning 1 But pretty much all my mates own gtrs and i LOVE THEM so dont think im hating on GTR'S for a second here but im sorry reality is an evo is a better track car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
×
×
  • Create New...