R32/33 Gtr Or Evo 5/6/7 As A Track Car.

[JETGTR]

Ummm pretty sure the STI gearboxes are stronger then the EVO's and there are many STI's with exhaust and tune making approx 200awkw.....

Just don't know what they are like reliability wise. Pretty sure the EVO's engine is a lot better.

Edited February 26, 2014 by JETGTR

[Mick_o]

Lol umm no sti gearboxes are made of glass good luck pushing 200+kw through 1 lol.

I make about 260-270kw with the stock evo 9 turbo with 26psi on E85 & im still using the stock clutch in my evo with no dramas.

[zebra]

The 5 speed ones were. The 6 speed in the bug eye is meant to be pretty good

[sinistaGTR]

Ummm pretty sure the STI gearboxes are stronger then the EVO's and there are many STI's with exhaust and tune making approx 200awkw.....

Just don't know what they are like reliability wise. Pretty sure the EVO's engine is a lot better.

Yeh plenty of guys punching 300kw with the stock 6 speed evo 8/9 box anything over that and it gets hairy. But the evo 7, 5 speed box is super strong and few guys pushing over 350kw with them, very common upgrade for the 8/9 guys. As for power... evo with exhaust, intake and tune (on the stock ecu) will get 220kw on pulp... add in injectors and pump and you can have 250-260kw on E85 all day....

There is a reason you see SO many evos as track cars and bugger all STIs

[Duncan]

WRXs are far less common and successful in production car racing or tarmac rallies than Evos are. Actually, Evos are like arseholes....

[Duncan]

Having said that, I did see a WRX finish the Bathurst 12hours earlier this month

[JAS-25T]

Having said that, I did see a WRX finish the Bathurst 12hours earlier this month

I'm sure that sentence needs a comma somewhere...

[JimmyRickard]

if you want a cheap dedicated track car to learn in buy a under 2l IPRA car, or like Chris and Mark did, go the MX5

Already built, easy to find, cheap, easy on tyres and pads.

Just out of curiosity, what U2L IPRA would you recommend?

Their lap times seem impressive, what sort of coin would be required to be competitive in that class?

Has anyone here driven a FWD race car? Are they fun to drive?

[warps]

Yes and yes.

Hondas seem to be the choice at present, and their double wishbone suspension makes them easy to tune, so they're about the most neutral FWD out there.

I regularly hose RWD guys in gravel khanacrosses, but that's where the FWD's really shine. The one time I took to Lakeside in my gravel car I was miles off the pace (118KW at the flywheel and gravel spec setup will do that) but I had an absolute ball.

IPRA might not be the best source of a "cheap / fast" car unless you actually want to compete in a race series (in which case, the by all means go for it). A good, competitive U2L IPRA car will generally cost somewhere between $20-30k. Without the restrictions in IPRA you could build something faster for much less (thanks to the IPRA tax). Cheaper cars do come up fairly regularly though, and I've seen several sell for under $10k (not lap record holders, but pretty quick and plenty fun nonetheless)

If you can score a K powered EG or EK Civic, or DC2 Integra set up for track work then you will do very well, and plenty of potential to go extremely fast. A decent K20 engine will make well over 200hp at the wheels, probably closer to 250 (don't quote me on that - I haven't actually been involved in any K20 race engine dyno sessions).

Edited February 27, 2014 by warps

[evil_weevil]

If I had my time again I'd be going a Honda.

Most of the u2l guys are faster than the over 2l guys.

There were a couple old integra type r's which used to be races in prod touring years ago. I know one was advertised for 15k with spares

[sultanaz]

Buy a EVO..

Gtrs have to many oil dramas unless uve tackled them...

i've spent so much on mine to get it where im happy with it..

[evil_weevil]

You know what?

THIS would be a great car and would give a fair bit of other stuff a run for its money

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/mirage/id/11957/Default.aspx

good price however being in WA getting it to where you are would cost a bit.

[bri73y]

my 2c..

I own a no expense spared R32 GTR that has never delivered on it's promise, always one thing after the other.

Last year I undertook building a cheap R33 GTST because I was getting shitty about never finishing, never starting or never being happy with my GTR.

I've got to say, I've done more laps in my GTST in the last 6months than I have in my GTR over the last 6 years.

Over the weekend my R33 competed in the Wakefield 300, qualified 12th in the wet and finished the race near last, but finished.

My GTR wouldn't have made it to half way. We split a power steering hose so lost probably 10laps trying to locate and replace the hose before rejoining the race.

Had to do an extra fuel stop also as only a standard tank, so there's another 5laps down.

The car is fairly basic, we ran on 14psi 98ron with about 330hp, and would've run perfect all day except the split hose. Tyres were shagged from mid way but no complaints here.

I've got to say it's far more rewarding/enjoyable finishing a race near last than not finishing at all. I towed her home last night and have practically nothing to do to her before taking her out again.

I've never done that in my GTR, it goes from the track to the mechanics, back to the track again. Massive pain in the ass!

My tip, buy/build a car that will finish the day. It's far more enjoyable than having a fast car that breaks.

[JimmyRickard]

I've never done that in my GTR, it goes from the track to the mechanics, back to the track again. Massive pain in the ass!

Out of curiosity, what are the main reasons why you think the GTST is a more reliable platform? Or rather, what were the issues that were causing you hassles with the GTR that you don't find on the GTST?

[bri73y]

My GTST is way less stressed than my GTR.

Try 330hp (in W300 tune) vs 670hp GTR.

Power breaks things.

Also, for those that say a GTR is a more rewarding drive than an Evo, that's very true, however a real wheel drive car is more rewarding again.

[Anfanee]

670HP?

that there is your problem. You shouldn't need near that much power as an amatuer racer. A good motor with a set of -7's or -5's will post good times and you won't brake the shit out of it. As soon as you even try to match that kind of power in a gts-t itl flip it's shit. Same with an EVO. You are talking more than double the standard power. No car can take that. Be realistic.

[bri73y]

670HP?

that there is your problem. You shouldn't need near that much power as an amatuer racer. A good motor with a set of -7's or -5's will post good times and you won't brake the shit out of it. As soon as you even try to match that kind of power in a gts-t itl flip it's shit. Same with an EVO. You are talking more than double the standard power. No car can take that. Be realistic.

It's a time attack car, they're meant to break . I just don't like that it does...

[zebra]

670HP?

that there is your problem. You shouldn't need near that much power as an amatuer racer. A good motor with a set of -7's or -5's will post good times and you won't brake the shit out of it. As soon as you even try to match that kind of power in a gts-t itl flip it's shit. Same with an EVO. You are talking more than double the standard power. No car can take that. Be realistic.

What do you think a halfway sorted RB26 with -5's makes

[Anfanee]

What do you think a halfway sorted RB26 with -5's makes

500KW? From -5's? Even with a 2.8 you are pushing your luck.

[Anfanee]

It's a time attack car, they're meant to break . I just don't like that it does...

Don't build a "time attack" car and get upset when it breakes. Comes with the territory. Same with people that throw -5's on a standard motor, squeeze 400kw out of it and then cry when the motor gives out? Logic makes no sense.

All the so called "Oil issues" Cost fk all considering if you are tracking a car i would expect the motor to come out first for a forged bottom end anyway. The people that have these issues are the ones that skimp out and want to build one on the cheap. Pull the motor out, forged bottom end, new oil pump, etc.. You shouldn't have any major issues ever again. With a good safe tune it should be able to be driven to and from the track.

"Never half ass two things, whole ass one thing"

-Ron Swanson

/endrant