Jump to content
SAU Community

R32/33 Gtr Or Evo 5/6/7 As A Track Car.


JETGTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just depends how competitive you wanna be?

I love both cars and own an evo 9 & NOTHING corners like it!

My 1st track day ever I was 5th fastest lap of the day in my 1st timed session ( popped a cooler hose 2nd session and it started to rain before my 3rd session) & the fastest on street tyres I believe.... Not bad for an amateur and a stock turbo :D

A 200kw evo feels like a 300kw gtr performance wise in street trim imo

Waiting to be flamed now lol :(

Edited by Mick_o
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evos typically cost more. You can usually buy a GTR and get it built to how you want it for the price of a good evo....

In saying that:

My mate has an evo 9.

Exhaust+ up the boost see 220KW. Job done.

Edit: in saying that i did notice Op saying 5/6/7 evo. I would get a 32 to be perfectly honest. Though i am biased.They are cheaper and quite a bit lighter than the other dielines. And it doesn't cost that much to get them "Safe".

Strip them and they really come out of their shells. (so to speak)

Edited by Anfanee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just depends how competitive you wanna be?

I love both cars and own an evo 9 & NOTHING corners like it!

My 1st track day ever I was 5th fastest lap of the day in my 1st timed session ( popped a cooler hose 2nd session and it started to rain before my 3rd session) & the fastest on street tyres I believe.... Not bad for an amateur and a stock turbo :D

A 200kw evo feels like a 300kw gtr performance wise in street trim imo

Waiting to be flamed now lol :(

unless youre at a track with gutters aye micko :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rb26 rebuilds aren't cheap so keep that in mind.

especially if you have the older r32 with the short nose crank.

altho not much comparison but 209awkw evo 7 feels faster and more fun corning than my 280rwkw R34 GTT.

but on a motorway run, the skyline would pull away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 Months for a ground up rebuild is normal TBH. Mine was in the shop for about that. Im still going too. Only little things to go. The only part that is original is the radiator ATM. getting replaced next month. Everything else is brand new pretty much.

I wouldn't risk buying a GTR without putting it into a shop before you track it. Or buy one cheapish and track it till it does break. If you are willing to put the time in (time more than money) they are worth it.

Other option is to possibly find a GTS-4 skyline and do a 30/25 conversion into it. Just an idea. (cheaper!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol @ all the power mods talk! What about making the car balanced & handle? Big power aint gunna win the races corner speed is and that's where the evo shines! Evo will probably cost a lil more for the initial purchase but will cost alot less to make it faster around a track ;)

Edited by Mick_o
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a starting track car simple Coilovers are simple and cheap. all the discussions beforehand have been about the engine hence the input.

It is not hard nor costly to make a GTR handle beautifully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just wondering if you have driven an evo before Anthony? Cause while I do agree that it doesn't take much to getting a GTR to handle well a cheap nasty set of coilovers still wouldn't bring it up to spec with an evo with a rear sway bar and some swift springs on stock struts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Legit though. Personally if i was looking into a track car id get a gts-4 and convert it. All the positives from the GTR without the price tag!

Except for the wider track and ability to run wider tyres and alloy bonnet and guards and the ability to say GTRs bischs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
×
×
  • Create New...