Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, first post on this forum. I have recently bought a new car. An 1994 r33 gts-t,which has a RB25de neo in it (n/a as im still on my p's) im having and issue with it idling (plan on cleaning the aic this weekend/during the week) and it is running rich and very poor fuel economy. I believe it may still have the r33 gtst ecu (ecu has blue label on it) I would like to know if it is possible that the ecu is the problem, i have clean the afm, done plugs and changed the coilpacks to splitfires. thanks and i look forward to being involved with this community :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439276-help-please-rb25de-neo-issue/
Share on other sites

Wait, so it's a GTS-T and someone's pulled out the RB25det and put in an RB25de?

If so, you may as well have bought one with a turbo. You're driving a car you're not meant to, regardless of engine. Removing the turbo doesn't make it P plate friendly.

As for your problem, I'd start by sourcing a non-turbo ecu for it.

Cowboy1600, i dont know what you mean, not p plate friendly. Its a gtst... Yes... Which now has a completely different motor in it, rb25de neo from an r34 making it n/a. Which means by law it is 'p plate friendly'. In regards to dtc 54 i dont understand why its throwing that unless it also has had a manual conversion that im unknown of and they havent changed the ecu there either.

Welcome to SAU Blake!

Technically the guys are right about driving a GTST minus the T. Keep your head down, don't be too silly & you should be right (unless you get a copper who know how to read a compliance plate).

Running a GTST ECU on a NEO N/A is not the best idea.

What were the plugs like when you pulled them out?

There could be a few things going on here. Yes the ECU could be at fault. You could also have an intake leak somewhere or even an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor causing it to fuel up a bit, but seeings as its thrown a code for the O2 sensor, I'd start there & double check everything else to be safe.

Researching the part # on the ECU would be a good thing too.

update to this. Replaced the o2 sensor today, seems to be running not as rich. looked up the ecu last night, found out it has correct ecu for engine. I am now chasing a vacuum leak in the engine which i will sort when i clean the aic this weekend :D

Edited by Bwillie

seems like gapping spark plugs to 0.8mm, setting the idle properly, checking the timing, set to 30 degrees (woohoo) and running 98 octane shell v power is making it run much smoother and MORE POWER! Cleaned aic etc, didnt seem to be that dirty compared to others ive seen!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...