Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,
I have a genuine Nismo F50 Brake Kit for sale. Had planned to put this on my GTR but ended up buying another GTR which has the same brake kit :(
The kit is in excellent condition! The calipers have been re-built with genuine Brembo seals, dust boots and bleeder screw caps.
Pads are the original Nismo R-Tune pads that come with the kit and has plenty of meat left on them as seen in the pics.
Rotors are also the original Nismos. They are 355mm in diameter and are still at 32mm thickness which shows how little use these brakes have had.
Only downside is the paint on the face of the calipers have discoloured. Nismo warn about this happening on their website (not sure why they just didn't use a better paint). If you desire, I can have the calipers professionally re-sprayed in any colour you want and have fresh Brembo decals put on and clear coated over for an extra $200.
To get the same kit delivered to you from Nismo would cost you close to 5 grand!
I'm only looking at $2000 for a quick sale.
Thanks

1392383531991_zpsrdvv2t5u.jpg

1392383518395_zpsckk89rrv.jpg

1392383549898_zpsj25dcoxu.jpg

1392383490597_zps3oxkksti.jpg

1392383453656_zpswqnxgogn.jpg

IMG_20140214_210537_zpsejmr4cyf.jpg

What the same kit looks like behind the wheels of my car :)

IMG_20140201_184023_zpsqbpxzwev.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439361-genuine-nismo-brembo-f50-brake-kit/
Share on other sites

And lastly, RHD Japan's price on the kit.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-high-performance-brake-kit.html

Remember, import taxes are 10% of purchase price and that price hasn't included the cost of shipping to Australia :)

If...

a) XKLABA hasn't already got dibs on them and...

b) the weight difference is small (Vs OEM)

c) disc faces have no blue patches with cracks

d) you'll accept $2K including courier (eGo) to 2777

I'll take them thanks. :rolleyes:

  • Like 1

I'm calling dibs, just waiting on pics of discs

Their a 355 disc against 324, I'd say a decent weight difference which isn't a concern for me with the 3ltr

I have some 355 DBA 5000 series two piece discs here for a 370z and they are fairly heavy compared to the stock 34 discs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
×
×
  • Create New...