Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In all seriousness, it's very difficult to compare even similar cars on the same dyno.

There are so many factors.... and honestly, all you can hope for is that your car reaches it's intended potential at that time in that configuration.

After chasing my ass more times that I can count trying to reach theoretical power figures, my attitude to dyno tuning now is 'It makes what it makes, just make it safe'.

I've seen variations of 50-60rwkw on my own car in the same or very very similar configuration on the same dyno/operator due to weather and temperature only.

... flattening off like that may indicate that there is a restriction present other than the turbo.

I'd be looking at a boost restriction across your cooler core/pipework, drop the exhaust for the dyno, new plugs and thinish oil, smaller wheels (if you have hecktic 22 inch chromies), clean AFM, clean air filter, check base timing and check cam timing and fresh full tank of fuel.

If there is no significant drop in pressure accross the cooler core, significant pressure build up in your exhaust, significant vac in your intake or mechanical fault, then regardless of what the dyno says (and assuming the operator/tuner know what they're doing) then your car is getting towards the top end of it's potential for it's given configuration.

... now if you want bigger numbers. Get a bigger turbo on a bigger engine with a lighter drive train on smaller wheels on a cold ass day with a silly ramp rate and a little temp correction for good measure.

Or... enough nitrous will fix just about anything.

J.

  • Like 1

Yer i understand at the end of the day its just a number but i was still kinda hoping for that magic number in my head

Injectors are gtr ones.

The tuner did mean the tyres on the rollers but he has only seen it happen on big power cars anf normally it frys rubber.

The wheels are only 18. But brand new tread 275.. everything else was brand new service wise...

And being a rb20 i wasnt expecting huge numbers. But at least a little more. It still drives good for what it is.

... now if you want bigger numbers. Get a bigger turbo on a bigger engine with a lighter drive train on smaller wheels on a cold ass day with a silly ramp rate and a little temp correction for good measure.

I have personally seen a poo-brown old style VW beetle run 295rwkw on the dyno. It was a friend's car and I'm sure he still has a printout. When we had all finished falling about laughing the dyno operators did a real run and it got 25kw. So it's trivial to manipulate the dyno settings to get a particular result.

It does look like you are hitting a flow limit, because power ramps up and then suddenly gets capped. Make sure the turbo intake pipe isn't sucking shut, shouldn't happen at those power levels but you never know.

  • Like 1

Just my 2c, I had owned my r33 gtst for a while, Starting at 200rwhp. In the end it had an aftermarket turbo and all that stuff and i could easily feel the difference in power after every time it was dyno tuned. The most it made was 385rwhp on a roller dyno. I later had it tuned on another roller dyno making 335rwhp with pretty much the same boost and that was the quickest it ever felt..

275's wont help it lol thats a huge tyre for any car to turn over

dynos are for tuning and thats it. I wouldnt be too concerned. If your really worried go back and ask them to put the inlet temp sensor next to your exhaust,i am sure you will be happier with the power the car makes

ahh that sucks to hear, sorry mate. The car should still feel pretty zippy on boost though. But you might break something soon. Also, when you go to the dyno throw your stocker wheels on with 205's of a hard rubber. Trust me fresh 275's are too wide and too soft for the dyno you WILL be losing out on your power reading.

you can run stable afrs and still detonate....

Yep.

But your question suggested that the car was running out of fuel, either inectors or pump not supplying enough.

which is clearly not the case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300   IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride.  Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900   Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details.  
    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
×
×
  • Create New...