Jump to content
SAU Community

Unhappy Dyno Results..

thekane125

By thekane125,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

In all seriousness, it's very difficult to compare even similar cars on the same dyno.

There are so many factors.... and honestly, all you can hope for is that your car reaches it's intended potential at that time in that configuration.

After chasing my ass more times that I can count trying to reach theoretical power figures, my attitude to dyno tuning now is 'It makes what it makes, just make it safe'.

I've seen variations of 50-60rwkw on my own car in the same or very very similar configuration on the same dyno/operator due to weather and temperature only.

... flattening off like that may indicate that there is a restriction present other than the turbo.

I'd be looking at a boost restriction across your cooler core/pipework, drop the exhaust for the dyno, new plugs and thinish oil, smaller wheels (if you have hecktic 22 inch chromies), clean AFM, clean air filter, check base timing and check cam timing and fresh full tank of fuel.

If there is no significant drop in pressure accross the cooler core, significant pressure build up in your exhaust, significant vac in your intake or mechanical fault, then regardless of what the dyno says (and assuming the operator/tuner know what they're doing) then your car is getting towards the top end of it's potential for it's given configuration.

... now if you want bigger numbers. Get a bigger turbo on a bigger engine with a lighter drive train on smaller wheels on a cold ass day with a silly ramp rate and a little temp correction for good measure.

Or... enough nitrous will fix just about anything.

J.

  • Like 1
thekane125 Apprentice

thekane125

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yer i understand at the end of the day its just a number but i was still kinda hoping for that magic number in my head

Injectors are gtr ones.

The tuner did mean the tyres on the rollers but he has only seen it happen on big power cars anf normally it frys rubber.

The wheels are only 18. But brand new tread 275.. everything else was brand new service wise...

And being a rb20 i wasnt expecting huge numbers. But at least a little more. It still drives good for what it is.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

... now if you want bigger numbers. Get a bigger turbo on a bigger engine with a lighter drive train on smaller wheels on a cold ass day with a silly ramp rate and a little temp correction for good measure.

I have personally seen a poo-brown old style VW beetle run 295rwkw on the dyno. It was a friend's car and I'm sure he still has a printout. When we had all finished falling about laughing the dyno operators did a real run and it got 25kw. So it's trivial to manipulate the dyno settings to get a particular result.

It does look like you are hitting a flow limit, because power ramps up and then suddenly gets capped. Make sure the turbo intake pipe isn't sucking shut, shouldn't happen at those power levels but you never know.

  • Like 1
LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
Posted

Just my 2c, I had owned my r33 gtst for a while, Starting at 200rwhp. In the end it had an aftermarket turbo and all that stuff and i could easily feel the difference in power after every time it was dyno tuned. The most it made was 385rwhp on a roller dyno. I later had it tuned on another roller dyno making 335rwhp with pretty much the same boost and that was the quickest it ever felt..

ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

275's wont help it lol thats a huge tyre for any car to turn over

dynos are for tuning and thats it. I wouldnt be too concerned. If your really worried go back and ask them to put the inlet temp sensor next to your exhaust,i am sure you will be happier with the power the car makes

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

ahh that sucks to hear, sorry mate. The car should still feel pretty zippy on boost though. But you might break something soon. Also, when you go to the dyno throw your stocker wheels on with 205's of a hard rubber. Trust me fresh 275's are too wide and too soft for the dyno you WILL be losing out on your power reading.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

you can run stable afrs and still detonate....

Yep.

But your question suggested that the car was running out of fuel, either inectors or pump not supplying enough.

which is clearly not the case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...