Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the 370z isn't even a good looking car as it stands...then you want to put that front on a car that is 15+ years older. The stock 33 front looks better than that haha. Spend your money on something that you can actually benefit from...Power/handling mods or a house deposit.

the 370z isn't even a good looking car as it stands...then you want to put that front on a car that is 15+ years older. The stock 33 front looks better than that haha. Spend your money on something that you can actually benefit from...Power/handling mods or a house deposit.

are you high?

the 370z is a fantastically beautiful car.

was bored so i photoshoped it to show you what it may / could look like...

personally.. it does not suit.. nor will it be cheap.. :P

r33-70.jpg

TBH i actually don't mind that at all... IF you could pull it off. Would be a pain to do.

No, I'm not high. Each to their own. My neighbour has one. For the $$$ he paid there is a big list of cars I would purchase before one of those. They are nothing special and they are tiny.

Have you ever even driven one?

250KW stock in a car that weighs 1400kg RWD. Amazing fun to drive.

Haven't driven it but have been in it numerous times. As I said above, each to their own. I'm not convinced and probably never will be. Aesthetically they are not for me :no:

Fairenough.

yer im in the process of paying my house of and yer I actually like the way that the 370z front looks on the R33 no spoiler and some fatter skirts I reckin would look sik even wide rear guards.

Dunno what the Quote was about lol but yer even I guess R35 GTR front on there would look nice but u need to continue the fatness around the car lol I lie the look and yer the 370z front would be cheaper to acquire then the GTR 35 if someone can mod that pic with some fatter rears and side skirts and get rid of the whale tail see how it looks then.

ohh hey man yer looks better nice mate nope I havnet asked an engineer or anything yet is there anything I need to know im guessing if it isn't really modifying the chasis or actually structure and all things like lighst and stuff still work im guessing it cant be that much of a problem maybe bonnet and stuff like that I dunno.

But hey all things like intercoolers and boost controllers aftermarket ECu's and neons and all that have a warning saying For off road use only so even with an engineers cert they can still defect you go check it out.

Im guessing a lot of stuff will need to either be welded or fibreglassed up moulds aswell so I cant see things like bonnets and bumpers being structully sound compared to stock standard items.

I havnet measured it up either so I have no idea if it will fit.

couple of questions you have to ask are:

will you be using an r33 gtst or an r33 gtr (ovibous reasons being ones wider but more expensive)
how much will it be to source a 370z front cut/rolling body vs getting fibreglass made panels
what engine do you want to run (please say rb26)
and last have you looked around for a well respected panel shop thats capable of pulling of such a task

but youd be looking at more then what you could build a very quick gtr with to pull this off, and at the end of the day.. doing a conversion like this youd want some sort of modified engine to go into it to walk the walk

but go for it :)

well to be honest I wouldn't use a GTR id keep it RWD do a lil drifting in it and il leave the RB series motor in for now this case a Rb25DET maybe later down the track go to a VG30DETT so the engine is in a better position for chasis balnce but that's just my thoughts might even leave the RB25 in there and rebuild an Rb30 block and put that in with the RB25 head.

I dunno this is all an idea atm I know its gunna cost abit to get stuff done but those the breaks if you want something I love the stupid comments too thanks its all good il add to your posts done guys np.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...