Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking parting out my 33 4 door. Depending on interest, rough parts list as follows. Will only start to strip when I get deposits etc

RB25DET Neo 87***kms

1.7mm metal headgasket

Gate racing timing belt (5000kms old)

Water pump (5000kms old)

Tomei adjustable cam gear, exhaust

Fresh ACL bearings $2000

Highflow Rb25 injectors 550 or 660cc will check $400

Hks Oil Cooler with oil filter relo $500

Hks return flow intercooler, with Hks BOV $650

Splitfire coil packs (5000 kms old) $400

Alloy rad holds a lot of coolant with silicone hoses $225

Exedy hyper single clutch n flywheel plenty of meat (5000 kms old) $450

Highflow turbo 3076 with larger rear housing, garret core, braided oil/water lines, Neo front housing cost $2470 made 248 rwkws on 13psi $1400

Hks hard inlet pipe $120

Standard RB25 Afm with plug $75

Rb25 loom series 2 $250

Z32 nistune Ecu so you can run Vct still $550

Manual convo kit minus gearbox and clutch or buy the clutch as well $250

Standard R200 diff $150

Tein Super Street Coils, no knocks mint $750

Tein castor rods $180

Stock Shocks/Springs $200

Standard wheels with 1000km old tyres $350

Hicas lock bar jap brand good quality $100

3 inch stainless front n dump pipe $150

Full 3 inch stainless cat back with highflow cat $450

Shell has rego just expired, silver make and offer will be rolling BYO wheels. No brakes

Series two headlight couple cracks still worked fine missing a clip $270 for the pair

Series 2 taillights one cracked and centre piece $175

Series 1 taillights and centre piece $75

Doors $100 bare door, $150 with interior and electric window assembly

Guards $100 each or $175 pair

Bonnet $150

Boot has spoiler holes $75

Front bar with front viva lip has cracks in it $175

Rear pods $100

Skirts $100

Front Window $100

Rear Window $125

Starter Motor $75

Steering Wheel $100

Auto Dash Cluster $50

Seat Belts $75 each or $200 the lot

Seats $50 each

All other bits just Pm me

Wheels, Brakes and gearbox soldpost-86415-0-89614200-1392881185_thumb.jpgpost-86415-0-89614200-1392881185_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...