Jump to content
SAU Community

Anfanee - R32 Gtr


Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

For a while i have been thinking about starting a thread, updating what i do to my GTR. As most of the performance stuff has already been done it will be pretty much all cosmetics.

So first things first. A bit of History.

Bought the car from a local guy here in Canberra.

post-92069-0-69682100-1392953102_thumb.jpg

3 Months later my engine went Bang cause: Dirty fuel caused massive detonation. Cracking Piston #2, did a bloody good job of it (it was actually split in half). And the Piston rings had melted to the pistons. Obviously it had a very lard life.....Here is was the compression test:

1/15

2/0

3/25

4/125

5/90

6/50

9 Months later i had it back with my full forged bottom end and completely new fuel system. Here is what the engine looked like directly from the rebuild for the run in.

post-92069-0-28689000-1392951880_thumb.jpg

When the car was being rebuilt i had a look at the turbos (looked almost brand new) and took the gamble to leave the stock ceramic turbos in as i love my response. heinsight is a wonderful thing. 500KM into the run in phase i spat the exhaust wheel from 1 of my turbos into my cat. Sigh. Ultimate tunes where kind enough not to charge me for the labour to install new turbos. Thanks again guys.

Decided to go with -7's to try to keep my response levels to where i like them whilst having a bit more power.

Kept going through the run in phase. On the way to work i lost an AFM. Back in it went. Again ultimate tunes didn't charge me at all for the AFM! Can't recommend them enough. Anyway after that it has pretty much been smooth sailing.

From there about 3 months after the run in and everything was smooth i decided to add a bit more. This time it went in for the following:

New catch can

Tomei Type B cams and adjustable cam gears

Full Painting of the head (Bayside Blue)

Z32 AFM.

Also put stock BOVs in as my ones where ATMOS and i hated them.

Since i had asked to replace the cams Adrian decided to pull the head off to make sure that everything was A OK with the engine. Since that was off i decided to pain the Plenumm as well. Here is how it came back to me:

post-92069-0-45503500-1392952503_thumb.jpg

From there i decided to start to try out a few things. I managed to track down a set of Original stickers for my wheels (Took me 4 months of searching, 5 minutes for someone on SAU). Very happy i found these...

post-92069-0-02339400-1392952744_thumb.jpg

Next came a bit of fiddling with the engine bay. Painted both the radiator overflow and the washer bottle:

post-92069-0-62092500-1392952788_thumb.jpg

I also managed to track down a fuse box cover for $5 so i bought another one and pained that black as well.

Next i decided on a strut brace. I spent probably 2 months thinking about what strut brace. Was going to go a MINES strut brace but decided that i could not justify the extra $1000 over the HKS Kansai. So i went the Kansai, and at the same time i replaced my POD filter element with a blue one and bought a Nismo vision cover:

post-92069-0-95697000-1392952973_thumb.jpg

post-92069-0-24175500-1392953037_thumb.jpg

Now we are pretty much up to date. But i still have so much more to do. Plans for the not too distant future:

HKS hard pipe kit

Koyorad 53mm radiator

Full braiding lines for the fuel system, catch can etc..

Re do interior with new dash, Nismo interior and other little bits and pieces

and as i go restore parts as i see fit.

I have literally just ordered another $200 worth to go in ASAP. So stay tuned....

If you have any feedback/Ideas input is welcome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First update was what i did last night...

Pulled off my Number plate lights and reverse lights and gave them a clean:

post-92069-0-68262600-1392964912_thumb.jpg

post-92069-0-86200300-1392964921_thumb.jpg

post-92069-0-37726900-1392964930_thumb.jpg

Noticed that both of my reverse lights now have cracks in them... Anyone know where i can get new replcements?

Since i had the kit out i did my rear tail lights as well!

post-92069-0-20471700-1392965021_thumb.jpg

Exhaust a little bit of a polish, noted that one of the mounting brackets have come loose so ill pull it off in the next few weeks and re weld it.

post-92069-0-54554400-1392965082_thumb.jpg

And finally gave my number plate a bit of a scrub to top off the look. All these parts will be coming off next week again anyway so ill give them another clean then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did the inner door cards. Credit goes to RBN1 for this idea. Loved it so much i had to do it. Subtle change that looks amazing!

post-92069-0-15410900-1393120582_thumb.jpg

post-92069-0-51816300-1393120621_thumb.jpg

Loving the look. I think that is all the CF i will put in the interior as i have other plans. More details to come in the next few weeks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, Stuff is still in the mail. Was hoping for it to arrive on Friday but only some of it did. Trying to chase up some OEM parts that have broken. Looking for reverse lights (prefer brand new) and the rear speaker covers (Harder to track down than a clean hooker!).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How did you manage to find speaker covers? They are definitely hard to find?

I have a set but they are dented.

Sourced directly from Nissan. Still waiting on a final price. Fingers crossed. I have been searching for like 6 months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

P.S. Nice rims.

They look very similar to the LMGT4s

Good to see that you have found a good workshop that you are happy with. Half the problem with owning a performance car is taking it to a workshop which won't take you for a ride

Good job

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could you please post a part number, as I would like to get a pair too.

CHeers :)

2817401U11

2817501U11

^^ For both. Still waiting on a reply to confirm those are the right ones as there was 2 different types made. Will confirm in the next two days.

Comment so that I can keep track of this build. Nice work mate, keep it up

Thanks Dan, Can't wait to see a build thread for your new purchase :woot:

P.S. Nice rims.

They look very similar to the LMGT4s

Good to see that you have found a good workshop that you are happy with. Half the problem with owning a performance car is taking it to a workshop which won't take you for a ride

Good job

Yeah i was very lucky these were on the car when i got it. quite hard to track down now. They are basically the same as LMGT4's but slightly thicker and more aggressive.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...