Jump to content
SAU Community

Anfanee - R32 Gtr


Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, Anfanee said:

Also looking into options for the battery. Possibly a stand+enclosure welded up.... at the moment it's literally propped up with wood hahaha

Standard size should fit ok? Mine does

Few questions...

The black fuel line that runs over the plenum.. Should i braid that for the lulz?

I cant see a fuel line over the plenum? Theres a black vac line that you should make longer and run under the plenum

Also considering either braiding or getting one of the old school greddy hard pipes for the top Rad hose...???

Nah?

Next on the list is a toss up and i can't decide.

Gearbox rebuild- Typical synco issue coming down from 5th to 4th, loves a good teeth clean.

Buy another box and when it breaks use the two to make 1 hahaha

Diffs - Replace both front and rear with a quiafe front and nismo pro rear.

Whats wrong with the standard rear diff? Just rebuild it. And front diff is motor out so might as well do extended sump instead of quaife rear diff

Suspension - Sway bars (probs whiteline, nismo is more than twice the price now) and replace my Teins with MCA blues orrr Nismo suspension. 

MCA

But hey, dont let me stop you haha.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, k_d said:

 

Standard battery does fit. I'm just not using one.

Sorry I meant the vac line for the fpr. Yeah might get a longer one and just tuck it.

As for the gearbox if I have to drop it, for $900 I'll just rebuild it. 

And as for rear diff again nothing wrong with a rebuild just thinking  if I'm doing it I may as well do it properly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If i'm getting the rear diff rebuilt award will do it. thoughhhhh if i do that 

Ill get Ultimate to pull the rear diff and gearbox out and ill take them down in the cube. 

 

$$ ads up quickly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Started polishing the footrest but its too bloody hot. Will also get some rust converter for the bracket and have a crack at that on the weekend. 

It seems like it should come up OK, that rust section on the face that is on the left will probs require sanding but the rest has come up pretty good for 20 minutes worth of work. I might even leave the bit on the left for the time be and polish the rest up and fix it later. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

So it had a good check over, a couple of little long term things that need addressing but nothing major. Overall pretty happy. Fixed a few things and the car is driving beautifully, it's amazing when little things can make the world of difference. 

Next will be sway bars i suspect. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh also...

I am the 1st person in history that after not having HICAS for years, loves the feel of it now that i have it. Legit cannot understand why people lock it out, i can understand removing it for the weight, but the car has so much more direction above 80km/h. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...