Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have had my r34 sitting for about a week due to not driving it any more.

First time taking it for a drive and I cannot get into the car with either the central locking or the key itself.

Just can't get more then half way with the key on both doors. Worked fine a week ago with central locking.

But now with that I only get one beep and that's to arm the alarm. No two beeps for unlocking.

I don't hear any locking mechanisms going at all

Boot lock turns and works.

Also

I have had a new battery fitted recently.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439505-r34-gtt-wont-open/
Share on other sites

That's freaky.

The key should still work but trip the Alarm. At least it does with mine.

There is no way the key should not work in the door locks - not possible (as it is physical).

When you say new battery. Do you mean in the Fob or the car battery?

I have replaced both previously with no issues.

Sounds to me like the frequency has changed for the unlock motion :(

Edit: By the way I have a 34 GTT also

Edited by Sinista32

Try spraying some lubricant into the lock barrel with the key partly in and give it a try. Dirt and crap gets into them and if haven't been used in a while can make them hard to turn.

  • 5 years later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread but this is happening to me right now. And it's got me stumped. 

I bought my r34 gtt end of last year and only have opened the car using the central locking. 

I had a flat battery in the car after leaving it over the Xmas and new yrs holidays. The car wouldn't unlock using central locking. So automatically I went to try open the car door using the key, and both doors won't unlock using the key. Tried the boot and it opened fine. So I called the previous owner and asked if he had problems unlocking the doors with the key, in which he replied he's had flat battery before and the door unlocked fine with the key... 

Anyway, I ended up unlatching the hood and put jumper leads on the battery to another car to unlock the gtt with central locking remote. 

But the key still won't turn on both doors... 

Any ideas? 

(I don't have a spare key) 

Le sigh.

If the key won't turn the barrel, then either they don't go together, or the mechanisms in the doors are jammed. The first is 1000000% more likely than that both doors have f**ked up in the same way. Nevertheless, you could take the door cards off, and check out the locking rods, clips, pivots and so on and spray some lithium grease on them and see what's happening. In fact, if you take the cards off and then use the internal lock mechanisms (near the inner door handle) you should be able to see if the only possible thing that could be wrong is that the lock barrels won't turn.

Then you get a locksmith.

And FFS. You've had the car 2 years and haven't attempted to get a spare key?!!!

50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You've had the car 2 years

 

2 hours ago, leej84 said:

bought my r34 gtt end of last year


3 weeks? 
 

the old called the previous owner.... I wouldn’t answer, deal done 1 2 warranty.

Yes, I've had the car for about 3 weeks and went on holidays during Xmas and new yrs. 

The previous owner has actually been very helpful and there's no reason for him to lie. I don't expect him to fix the problem anyway. 

I guess I'll open up the door cards to see what's going on.

Being a Skyline (ie cop bait and thieving prick bait) there is a very high possibility that it has been broken into at some point.  The owner possibly replaced the barrels with a new (or used) set or they re-coded the door barrels without re-coding the whole car (which they should do).

Whip the door trims off, pull the locks out and drop them to the locksmith to be matched to the key or replaced and recoded if they are stuffed.  I agree with GTSBoy that it's unlikely BOTH sides are worn out as the passenger side door lock would be very infrequently (if ever) used, even more so on a car equipped with remote central locking!

Good luck!

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...