Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I have a 04 coupe and wanted to know if anyone has bc coilovers installed with the damper control setting on the top. Problem is I purchased a strut bar from ebay and it doesnt fit because the bracket hits the top of the damper button. Is there anyone out there who has a strut fitted with bc coilovers that clear the damper button and also if you have a plenum spacer does it clear the bonnet or engine cover needs to be removed? Thanks guys

Hi mate.

I have BC coilovers, the 5/16th plenum spacer and a carbon engine cover. I've managed to install my strut bar.

From what I've heard, not all strut bars will fit. Ebay one's undoubtedly have very little R&D to take these needs into account. As a result I bit the bullet and purchased a GT-Spec strut bar.

Fits perfectly! Very happy

12714532985_6c52862407_o.jpg

12714542655_cd27a40b66_o.jpg

Mate that looks clean! Looks like ill be after those as well...just wanted to know where you purchased the strut, cover and the bonnet/hood dampers? Cheers also did the strut make a difference?

No point in putting a strut brace on. Does nothing and most are hollow weak crap. Our cars are weaker down the bottom not up top like previous skylines.

Research would have saved alot of time!

Edited by Howaitonaito

They are probably not useless, just very low on the priority list in terms of suspension upgrades.

Did you order that one that is all one piece? Any chance of a pic?

I installed the bar after installing new whiteline bushings and sway bars. I noticed a difference before and after the strut bar alone; steering felt slightly sharper.

During the install I did observe flex between the strut towers which I also found was predominately eliminated by the strut bar.

I had to move the car to let another out of the driveway, and parked with one wheel off the drive. The strut bar (which was not tightened at the ends) couldn't be moved due to the force acting upon it.

Upon moving the car back to an even surface it became adjustable again (up and down).Obviously there is flex in the chassis. Controlling this flex is the strut bar's job; If this flex didn't exist then yes the bar would be useless, but from my experience it does. Others can make up their own mind but I found value in a decent quality strut bar. I wouldn't put it high on the mod list for handling though as you get better bang for your buck with sway bars.

Howaitonaito is right in that you should avoid cheap bars as they are usually hollow pieces of junk which would never cope with force exerted on it.

I bought the gt-spec bar from evasivemotorsports.com. One of the few places that will ship it internationally. Again I chose it after researching (would suggest you make your own choice) - it's of a very high quality in terms of welding and construction.

The other carbon stuff was from a seller in the US... can't remember sorry =(

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 馃槢   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When鈥檚 the tow ball on the 33 coming? 馃檭
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
  • Create New...