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R32 GTR with Rb26 Head and Rb30 Bottom end.

Out of curiousity do you guys run the adapter plate for the RB26/30 that has the supporting centre that bolts onto the girdle or just the adapter plate that runs around the side?

Had a lil scare , my friend that built my motor said he was talking to hi octane racing and they said two out of all the adapter plates that run around the side have snapped on them... One was 800hp and slicks though and the other one i wasn't sure of the power.

Just want to know your opinion on them. I couldn't see my car getting over 600hp with HKS 2530's.

What one do you guys use?

i'd appreciate your comment... i've got the one around the side, but if there is enough people on here that have had dramas id consider binning it and getting the supporting centre one.

Cheers !

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Ours is the Pro engines one, just went straight on, no mods were needed as its perfectly engineered, templates come with it, very easy to follow, we even thought we found a issue with it and called Greg who was VERY helpfull and pointed out what the issue was and he was 100% correct, problem was us, not his product, its perfect and proven to be perfect.

Get it with the oil pickup from him, we didnt due to the sump design we had, looking back i should have bought his one and did what i needed to it rather than trying to fab one up from scratch which cost a lot more.

Your talking 600Hp, we are talking that in KW on ours.

We were more concerned with using a cast aluminium sump extension to add Sump/diff strength rather than the sheet aluminium ones and Grouted the bottom 3cm of the water jackets to help to strengthen the block.

Tyre grip plays a major part when forces start running through the front diff and sump to twist and break a adapter plate.....not to mention splitting the block....

Edited by GTRPSI

I have the one that bolts to the girdle, if you think buying it is dear wait till you get the machining bill !!

The other style is plenty good enough, I'd recommend you get the one from RIPS with their sump extention

Out of curiosity what do you mean by machining bill?

You talking general machining to the engine or was there machining needed for this type of adapter plate?

The machine work for that adaptor plate, due to having to machine the cradle down till the adaptor sits flush

Yeah this,

I had to machine the block, sump edge

Then take 5 tho off the girdle and torque it down

Then machine the bottom of the girdle for the adaptor plate

Then drill and tap the holes to bolt the adaptor to as well as the sump bolt hole in the block had to be drilled and taped

Then line bore the crank tunnel

Then bore and hone and deck the block

It's a lot of work involved compared to the other one

Had a lil scare , my friend that built my motor said he was talking to hi octane racing and they said two out of all the adapter plates that run around the side have snapped on them... One was 800hp and slicks though and the other one i wasn't sure of the power.

The pro engine ones flex, the block and or sump will crack being of cast material well before the adapter plate does, its quite thick and solid but yet flexable.

Our issue when we received ours was it was bowed a little, greg pointed out it bends easily to shape once bolted down, i just pushed it with my thumb and it sat flat, released my thumb and it went back to its bend, by the time you actually screw/bolt it down its never going to be a issue if i could bend it with my thumb.

We are talking about a 2mm bow in the center here that i paniced over.

He was also fantastic, i worringly texted him on a Sunday over it, he actaully took the time to immediately call me back on his day off, tried what he said on the phone and he was spot on.

No way in the world is it going to break, the block and sump will be permanantly split in 2 before this thing splits, it flexes freely to what its bolted to.

Edited by GTRPSI

You can very easily flatten the plates out in a drill press using a few 2" chocks of wood each side and press with the chuck in the middle using another piece of wood across the width of the plate to spread the load evenly. A few good overbends and it will spring back to flat.

I have the same issue with the plates I make, no soon as they come out of the jig in the CNC mill they spring. But he is right, a few mm in bow can very easily be pushed out by finger pressure, which makes it no problem for 20 x m6 counter sunk screws and the rest that hold the plate down to the sump rails.

  • Like 1

I see that the pro engines sump adapters are now being made by "The Real Steel Group" - anyone had any experience with these guys i.e. are they still just as good as the pro engines units?

http://proengines.com.au/sumpadapter.html

Looks like yours is coming along #@sultanaz, can I ask where you got your adapter plate from?

I dont think their is any diffrence, looks like Greg just let the person/company who he had make them continuing with them.

He never phisically made them, he had them made for himself by this company id say.....

Edited by GTRPSI

I see that the pro engines sump adapters are now being made by "The Real Steel Group" - anyone had any experience with these guys i.e. are they still just as good as the pro engines units?

http://proengines.com.au/sumpadapter.html

Looks like yours is coming along #@sultanaz, can I ask where you got your adapter plate from?

I'd actually like to know myself, my tuner got it for me... But ill ask him asap.

i paid about 950 for it from memory

Edited by sultanaz

You have me worries about this bill now.. are you talking about a platinum racing cradle??

I just sent mine off to the machine shop to get put together I hope I don't get hit with a massive bill

I have the one that bolts to the girdle, if you think buying it is dear wait till you get the machining bill !!

The other style is plenty good enough, I'd recommend you get the one from RIPS with their sump extention

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