Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've had a read of quite a bit of the catch can setups, however it has honestly left me a bit confused so I just wanted to clarify before I went ahead.

Can you please let me know if the following set up for the catch can is effective from the pics below?

Notes:

Original - 1:

this is how it is currently without the catch can in place.

The green dot means it is blocked off there. The intake manifold has instead been linked to the ViPec ecu.

The green loop means it is connected between rocker covers

The green snake to the right is exhaust side connected to the intake

Original - 2:

this is what the planned hosing will look like. Modified hoses are in blue, green means they're the same as before.

The exhaust side has been re-routed to the catch can

The other port on the catch can has then been routed to the intake.

Cheers all

post-867-0-06434700-1393143504_thumb.jpg

post-867-0-44696500-1393143513_thumb.jpg

Edited by PSIKO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439589-rb26-catch-can-install-confirmation/
Share on other sites

why not just run both to the catch can? and plug up the intake? this will stop your oil vapour being recirculated through your intake and making everything dirty and lowering your power....not sure if its legal tegal to do this in WA though.

As above ...your plan looks ok. Do you have some form of baffles in your catch can? If not and you are getting too much oil into your intake you might need an additional oil/air separator and/or put some mines baffles in the cam covers or make your own.

why not just run both to the catch can? and plug up the intake? this will stop your oil vapour being recirculated through your intake and making everything dirty and lowering your power....not sure if its legal tegal to do this in WA though.

If the legalities of it all weren't a concern, this would work wouldn't it?

Thanks for the replies everyone.

As above ...your plan looks ok. Do you have some form of baffles in your catch can? If not and you are getting too much oil into your intake you might need an additional oil/air separator and/or put some mines baffles in the cam covers or make your own.

I'm not quite sure, I'll have to contact the people who originally made it and ask them as I can't visually inspect inside it.

So I can keep the other port on the rocker cover intake side blocked off?

And that line from the intake manifold is fine going to the ECU and not connected somehow to the other vacuum lines? Just concerned that I need to connect in the PCV valve to the system, that's all.

Many thanks again!

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I'm not quite sure, I'll have to contact the people who originally made it and ask them as I can't visually inspect inside it.

So I can keep the other port on the rocker cover intake side blocked off?

And that line from the intake manifold is fine going to the ECU and not connected somehow to the other vacuum lines? Just concerned that I need to connect in the PCV valve to the system, that's all.

Many thanks again!

Yep route both cam covers to the catch can and you could block off the pcv valve too. The line going from the intake manifold to your ecu is presumably for the map sensor and should not be connected to any other line.

If it's a Sri catch can there's a hidden breather in the middle on the bottom. Don't know if it provides adequate venting capabilities for a modified engine as the openings very little

Grab a bar, a half inch ratchet extension will do, and gently turn the fittings in the rocker covers to face each other as well. Be careful with how hard you push as the fittings can be damaged if you have to push them too hard. Then you will have one cross over hose between the 2 rocker covers and the 2 outlets facing forward going to the catch can. Makes it look a little less obvious to the boys in blue. They should end up looking like this, bare in mind these rocker covers arent sitting correctly, but i am sure you can see what i am getting at. It just means there is nothing blocked off and it looks neater as well

IMG_7496.jpg

Where the can sits isn't a problem there's enough space there but if you look up the breather on the bottom, the gap between where the tube ends and the top of the catch can is very small compared to the surface are of most breathers which seem to be about -16

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...