Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a simple idea that I've searched for many times.

Simply post;

Car: eg. 32GTR

Brakes: eg. 355mm x 32mm 6 pot alcon bbk

Wheels: 18x9 + 20 BBS LM

Photos: eg. photo's of brake clearance

post-75263-0-79670800-1393214561_thumb.jpg

** Please not the above is an example only, the car isn't a 32 GTR and I can't confirm the size of the kit / wheel.

The idea is to collect in one place a list of what wheels fit what brake kits to help members such as myself looking for the largest brake kit that they can fit under a certain wheel.

If you have a big brake kit or run smaller then standard wheels (say 15" on a 32 GTR with OEM brakes) please contribute and help to make this thread a success.

This will hopefully clear up any confusion about what will fit and what won't, it will also save people buying brakes that don't fit under there desired wheels.

It's also a chance to be a brake whore.

Willis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439623-brake-clearance-thread/
Share on other sites

Allow me to be the first to post some brake porn.

Car: 32GTR

Brakes: 375mm x 36mm alcon rotors with 6 pot alcon billet monobloc daytona lemans prototype calipers (custom hats and brackets)

Wheels: 17x9.5 + 12 TE37

post-94131-0-80460600-1393216296_thumb.jpg

post-94131-0-81521100-1393216330_thumb.jpg

post-94131-0-95427100-1393216366_thumb.jpg

post-94131-0-21042300-1393216390_thumb.jpg

post-94131-0-58954300-1393216419_thumb.jpg

I have only trial fitted these so far, as i am awaiting a few bits and pieces to refurb the calipers.

Have plenty of spoke clearance.

Have about 5mm radial clearance between the caliper bolt and the inner diameter of the rim, however the bolt has a 5mm spacer at the moment as it is too long, so i will be machining the bolt thread down 5mm so that the bolt head is then recessed into the caliper, which will give me even more clearance.

Got 4 pots on 343mm x 32mm rotors to go on the rear. Plenty of room for those.

  • Like 1

It is a massive brake under 17s. I'm personally having a hard time believing he didn't mean 18s.

No I can gurantee they are 17s as I just put a fresh set of Nitto NT01s on them 255/40/17

I do what I can lol.

But dont forget that my hats and brackets were custom made so will not suit everyone.

Lets see what some off the shelf kits are like.

Those Alcon calipers must have precious little extra radial dimension outboard of the rotor. I mean the rotors are 375mm already. 17" rims are only ~430mm out at the very edge of the rim. You'd expect the middle of the wheel to be at least an inch inboard of that. 430 - 50 is already down to 280mm. I still can't see how it all fits. The last photo in your post is a rear wheel, yes?

Those Alcon calipers must have precious little extra radial dimension outboard of the rotor. I mean the rotors are 375mm already. 17" rims are only ~430mm out at the very edge of the rim. You'd expect the middle of the wheel to be at least an inch inboard of that. 430 - 50 is already down to 280mm. I still can't see how it all fits. The last photo in your post is a rear wheel, yes?

No, it is a pic of the front wheel and rotor.

If you have a look at the first pic you will see how the caliper sits right down on the rotor, and the rotor itself is almost flush with the outermost part of the caliper. They are designed that way as to maximize the size of the rotor in the smallest possible rim.

Being a TE37, they have one of the largest inner diameters per inch compared to others, being that they are forged one piece. And yes they are ~430mm diameter at the very edge and then reduce ~20mm each side. So 430-40=390mm inner diameter which leaves 15mm gap total 15/2=7.5mm radial clearance on each side, which is what i roughly have.

Trust me, if it didnt fit properly, i wouldnt put them on unless i used a bigger rim, like an 18".

  • 1 month later...
  • 6 years later...

In all honesty I don't know why this didn't take off.  It's got all the ingredients for a great thread! 


I stumbled across this while looking for info on what 18"SSR Disk face (HP/MD/NR/SL) is needed to fit over my WGNC34 260RS with OEM (R33) calipers and 355mm rotors.  I'll contribute to this thread when I've figured that out and decide on wheels! 
I'm looking at Minervas in 18" or Formula Mesh, also in 18".

Meanwhile... any chance any has info on this? 

Cheers! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...