Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently had to charge my flat battery ( not using car very much at the moment) and when I attached the neg lead back to the battery (with pos obviously already connected) I accidently (and clumsily) touched the ratchet used to tighten the nut between the neg and pos terminals of the battery resulting in big spark and me jumping quite high.

The car has been used since then and everything seems normal, but my question is could there have been damage to the electrics and/or the battery?

Many thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439770-accidentally-shorted-battery/
Share on other sites

And the ratchet would glow bright yellow and then melt before the battery went flat anyway. And in the meantime, the only effect at the ECU would have been removal of power.

The real problem you have heard about (although obviously not correctly) is reverse polarity connection. Hook up a jumper battery or car backwards and see what happens to the ECU (which may be nothing, depending on how good the RP protection is).

Edited by GTSBoy

Realistically, the welding thing is perfectly true. Or at least it used to be. And it isn't the battery terminals you need to remove. The ECU needed to be unplugged from the loom to prevent it from getting nasty zaps up through the earth connections.

More modern cars and ECUs have much better protection against this sort of thing so you can get away with it. But back when all this was new, many ECUs and other vehicle electronics were damaged by welding.

Well it shorted through my ratchet, so it should be fine, only thing would be the ECU that would be damaged if left on long enough and I would have known by now if it was wrecked. Are there any other components besides the ECU that can be damaged?

Think about it, Your shorting a battery accross the terminals. Basically you are bypassing everything between the positive and negative circuit in the battery. The only damage will be to your ratchet.

Unplugging sensitive electrics when welding is a good practice to do, in theory if you have the earth lead close to where you are welding (and provided it isnt near an ECU etc) then the chances of damaging it are minimised Because the circuit wants to take the shortest route to the earth lead. So if the earth lead is at the back of the car and you are welding on the front reo bar, you can imagine that the circuit is much more likely to join with the ECU circuit then if you have the Earth lead closer to the welding area. Having said that, I would never weld on a car without unplugging ECU's etc because its alot of current to pass through the chassis

Shorting across the battery terminals is not much different to shorting from the positive to the chassis (because the Battery negative goes to a nearby Chassis earth anyway)

The most likely thing you will damage is the battery. This is a bit more of an issue if the battery is in the boot, has been through some charging cycles and there is hydrogen gas around. Arcing the terminals can result in battery explosion. I've seen plenty of horrible photos of people messing with batteries in dump trucks/dozers where this has happened and the battery is a mangled wreck.

Summary:

Shorting battery terminals, not advisable but generally doesnt end in disaster

Welding with ECU's plugged in: No

Edited by 89CAL

Remember that some ECU's require a 5V power source for sensors and dont generally like higher voltages then that.

OHMS law proves that voltage is proportional to current. Voltage goes up, current goes up

Edited by 89CAL

Welding........much more than 12v.

And much more current then you will find in your fuse box in your car :)

Some people are lucky and get away with welding with everything still connected, but for the small amount of effort it takes to unplug stuff, its not worth the risk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...