Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A computer won't find it, I assume the metal ring the sensor picks up is damaged. If it's the front, it isn't the same as the awd Stagea pickup, this is your rwd sensor, the front one seems to be built into the wheel bearing.

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/cart/description.php?II=13678&Car_Type=NIS350&UID=20140305040927122.151.165.189

http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension/431954-abs-sensor-wheel-bearing-hub.html

I see. So this sensor will correspond to the brakes applying on cornering?

Ill be thorough and get the computer check regardless to rule out the ABS system and i will get them to check the sensor. It does it to both wheels though, not just the left one.

Those sensors and pickups are the only feedback the ABS computer gets from the wheels. If a front wheel has fallen off and the hub dragged down the road, that is the side I would be checking over thoroughly.

Back to square one!!

Scans came back clear. Front radius arm bushes are shagged but he said doesn't cause my problem. Speed sensors and steering adjustment AOK.

Just putting the feelers out...can you guys attack corners and sweeping bends in a spirited run?

My other friends V35 does very similar but not as often as mine.

Apparently the yaw control kicks in when the front wheels are about to go.

My friends VE had loose brake pads up front and his did the same thing as mine. That is my next step, new brake pads. I will also switch back to the old wheels and then see how i go.

I remember when i first bought this car and drove chain of ponds in SA, i could thrash it, no steering problem.

Very frustrating!!!

Anything that could cause the car to turn more or less than it should for the steering input will trigger VDC.

Compression rod bushes could do this is they are bad enough.

can you guys attack corners and sweeping bends in a spirited run

I've competed at Collingrove hillclimb numerous times in a 350GT coupe - factory springs & shocks & whiteline swaybars - and never had anything like what you are describing. I reckon you could call it a spirited run.

I do turn VDC off before each run - tried it once with VDC on and it cut power as I went into the first corner.

SOLVED!!!

What year is yours?

I think the problem may lie with aggressive VDC in the 03 models. There is a Yaw sensor underneath the cup holders. I unplugged that after a bit of research and WALA! I just drove through the hills with no problems what so ever! Slip and VDC OFF remain lit up, but if that's all it takes then I'm all for that.

I will mock up a little rocker switch for on and off control soon.

It is amazing to be able to drive "spirited" again.

Wow!

Well it depends on what the mechanic means with 'front radius arm', I am assuming he is talking about the lower control arm or compression rod?? Since you have had the lower control arm bushes changed, I can only assume he is talking about the compression rod bushes which are also a common problem on these cars.

VDC on my 05 will not bother me unless a wheel actually slips. It is quite sensitive and as soon as you get even the slightest bit of slip it will kick in and correct it. However, I have never had VDC kick in without first feeling or hearing some slip.

That said, the rear on my car is a bit too happy to kick out, especially in the wet and the VDC often has to catch it.

Traction control is not the same as VDC, although some do confuse the 2.

TC only keeps your driven tyres from spinning when excess throttle is applied.

VDC monitors steering wheel angle, individual wheel speed and a Yaw/G sensor attached in the middle of the car, and if it detects any loss of control it can cut engine power and apply brakes to individual wheels to correct it.

Edited by sonicii

wow learned something new today lol

Traction control is not the same as VDC, although some do confuse the 2.

TC only keeps your driven tyres from spinning when excess throttle is applied.

VDC monitors steering wheel angle, individual wheel speed and a Yaw/G sensor attached in the middle of the car, and if it detects any loss of control it can cut engine power and apply brakes to individual wheels to correct it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...