Replacing Exhaust Manifold Gasket

[Emrarrr]

Hey Guys,

My name is Emily and I just bought my first Skyline an R33 Series 2 GTS25t, put a bit of info and pics in the new members thread. I bought her cheaper due to a leaking exhaust manifold gasket and am currently in the process of changing and was just after some advice. I've done a lot of searches but can't find exact answers.

I have posted a pic of current state with turbo roped onto strut bar so it doesn't fall anywhere! Basically all the nuts and bolts are off minus three of the manifold stud bolts however was wanting to know is there anyway of accessing the manifold gasket and replacing it without having to undo the coolant line and oil lines?

I heard u can risk bending them and its not recommended but is it possible to get it out of the way just enough? I'm thinking I will chuck some braided lines on there to make life easier next time. Going to chuck a screamer on too.

If I can't just move out of way do I undo the lines and obviously drain the coolant? Do I have to replace the oil?

Also the studs seem fine and not yet sure of the turbo to manifold gasket state yet so thinking if it would be a good idea to get these incase before the shops shut?

Oh and last thing sorry! A lot of the bolts to the turbo were really loose, do I replace these or can they be torqued up?

Sorry for all the questions!

Thanks

Em

[Emrarrr]

Have decided to remove the lines just incase now!

[boostn0199]

Youll have to remove them youd probably have more chance to bend and damage the lines if you try to muck around changing manifold gaskets while its there, aslong as you dont put excessive force trying to refit lines in ways they dont want to sit you will be fine.

Change the turbo to mani gasket aswell, I would change the studs to if you have it off already might aswell do it since they are pretty cheap. What bolts are you talking about on the turbo? the dump pipe ones or the manifold to turbo ones? either way if they look fine you can just tighten them up.

Also good idea to replace all the banjo bolt copper washers with new ones. Lastly adding a screamer via those cheap split dumps on a stock turbo is a waste of time since they sound nothing like a real external gate screamer and alot of those cheap dumps cause the wastegate flap to jam up.

[skylinecouple]

As above. Bear in mind there are really really thin gaskets and good thick turbo to dump gaskets. Pay a little extra and get the good ones.

[Philr32]

I recommend changing all the studs and Jutes while ur there. Don't want to be pulling everything off again in 6months. Not to mention the problem probably had to do with bad studs and nuts.

[Mick]

no need to remove lines, i have done this twice on my exact car as yours, i have tons of pics if they will help and if you have any questions i can help you, i know torque specs and how to tighten the manifold studs in the head and what order to tighten the manifold nuts up, you really need to do it in order

[Mick]

and pls make sure to check the manifold for slight warping cos they are famous for the 1st and 6th to warp

[Emrarrr]

Thanks heaps for all the advice, used it all! The turbo to manifold gasket was screwed it was broken in half, three bolts broke off in the head- two were already like that and one did it trying to get it out and of course two of them were on the one entry. Was so angry! I put it all back together and sounds heaps better prob as I put new gaskets but I'm going to drive it like a Grandma then get someone to undo it all and drill out the bolts

[Emrarrr]

Should I invest in some arp ones? Do u think the car will be ok til next week when I can afford to get someone to do it? No way am I going to do that again for awhile!

[boostn0199]

Arp what? You just use new std manifold bolts if thats what your talking about. So are u saying that you put it all back all back together with a few brocken studs and now want to remove it all again to fix them?

[zoomzoom]

If you live in a city then a mobile thread repairer should be able to come out to your house and remove the broken studs. You should really torque the gasket up once, hopefully it will still make a good seal when you fix the threads. If you get a kit like this, it will have everything you need.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-exhaust-manifold-stud-kit-genuine-nissan-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-gts25-gts4-gtst-r33-gts25-gts25t-gts4-r34-20gt-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-gtv-p-193.html

The lesson here is patience, you could have done the work once.

[Philr32]

Thanks heaps for all the advice, used it all! The turbo to manifold gasket was screwed it was broken in half, three bolts broke off in the head- two were already like that and one did it trying to get it out and of course two of them were on the one entry. Was so angry! I put it all back together and sounds heaps better prob as I put new gaskets but I'm going to drive it like a Grandma then get someone to undo it all and drill out the bolts

That sucks, but that is why I said to do all the studs while ur there. If your in the Sydney area go to Just Jap, they had the Genuine OEM studs the cheapest out of anyone I could find when I did mine. And use never seize to make sure the don't get stuck when u have to removed them down the track

[Emrarrr]

Yep meant arp bolts, will just use the standard ones I have aside that I got with a manifold a bought.

Yeah basically have too many cars and garage time is limited and the next car needed to be put in plus I'm horribly impatient and I guess being able to drive it to a workshop and get them to do it would be easier and cheaper than getting a tow. The yuck sound has gone but its missing on idle etc which I assume is the bolts?

There is a mobile guy but haven't been able to get hold of him I'm in Perth. If anyone is keen ill pay!

[Emrarrr]

Thanks Phil! Sweet used an anti seize on some other parts also