Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So its time to replace the fuel filter on the skyline again and I'm not a fan of the Ryco stuff.

Obviously I will be getting a Z32 filter for larger filtration, but has anyone had any experience with either of these?

$(KGrHqV,!nUF!IcLpmimBQGQFNQye!~~60_12.J

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Skyline-GTS-T-Uprated-High-Flow-Fuel-Filter-FREEPOST-/160246942699?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item254f764beb

Lets read

"

Uprated High Flow, High Performance Filter

If you are running a tuned GTS-T engine you need one of these high flow, high capacity, Japanese made, Fuel Filters. Hesitation under acceleration can often be a blocked or inadequate fuel filter. Cars running higher horsepower will benefit from the larger capacity reservoir of the fuel filter which means there is more fuel reserve to call on under wide open throttle conditions near maximum revs. This is the same reason to change to a larger capacity fuel rail, but this filter is an inexpensive and worthwhile alternative until you actually need one."

OR this one made by an Australian company

FI0202_3-f38ed.jpg

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-Quality-Fuel-Filter-Z202-Suitable-For-/251372626532?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Plat_Gen%3AZ32&hash=item3a86f9e264

Edited by sonicz

Why would you not be a fan of the Ryco stuff? These filters are all approximately the same, except for the offbrand ones that no-one knows that just might have nothing useful inside them.

I suggest you do some googling on the fuel filter myth. Unless you have a major fuel related incident, you shouldn't really ever need to change the filter as they should last longer than the car in most cases!

Edited by GTSBoy

Ithink what everyone is trying to say is...just get a ryco

Why would you not be a fan of the Ryco stuff? These filters are all approximately the same, except for the offbrand ones that no-one knows that just might have nothing useful inside them.

I suggest you do some googling on the fuel filter myth. Unless you have a major fuel related incident, you shouldn't really ever need to change the filter as they should last longer than the car in most cases!

unless ethanol.....my ryco blocked up in about 3000km

!!

Ithink what everyone is trying to say is...just get a ryco

unless ethanol.....my ryco blocked up in about 3000km

!!

Yeah, well that might qualify as a "major fuel related incident". Put a load of different solvent into a tank that's been collecting crud for 20 years.......

  • Like 1

To answer most peoples question, I guess I Just don't see any good reason to like Ryco or believe they are any good. The fact most people use them doesn't say anything about the actual product to me. So not a fan. In fact I have seen reasons not to like them. Here is one example

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/415000-oil-and-fuel-filters-which-ones-are-not-now-made-in-you-know-where/

I suggest you do some googling on the fuel filter myth. Unless you have a major fuel related incident, you shouldn't really ever need to change the filter as they should last longer than the car in most cases!

I cant see how the exact opposite of that isn't true. Its an easy to service important part of a vehicle. Why not change it?

Actually most people that check the inside of their fuel filters find a barrage of dirt and crap inside them. See the thread above.

post-89296-0-63382400-1354690911.jpg

Different car, same build up.

post-12241-1198735868.jpg

Edited by sonicz

Running ryco for 3 years on e85 never had a problem I change after every year track season and cut them open to inspect and they are perfect so definately nothing wrong with them, ofcourse if you just switch to e85 you need to change it after a few 100ks since it picks up some shit but after that no worries.

Heres a pic of my filter from last year.

post-50426-0-45162300-1393574541_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

For every one of those there are 10000 filters thrown away with no measurable pressure drop (additional over when they were new) across them. And I have cut a couple of mine up over the years and there was almost nothing in them.

Fair enough. I'm still gonna try another brand though just for the sake of it. Looks like I'll order those big one from Japan. THEY ARE BIG IN JAPAN.

After I fit it this will play out of my Exhaust

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qutOSFit5Z8

Edited by sonicz

I ve used ryco and genuine Nissan over the years and cannot fault either. I change mine yearly which is def overkill in my opinion but hey Im anal with servicing my vehicles. Just piece of minf I guess

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
    • Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.
    • R33 with RB26 seems to go off of learned voltage for idle. Seemed like whatever the baseline voltage was once ECU first gains power will be the idle voltage. With ignition on unplug/replugging the TPS would relearn the idle TPS voltage.
    • Have you confirmed the 2 pin coolant temp sensor on the motor is working properly? I've had a very similar issue when I forgot to plug mine back in many years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...