Warmig Up The Car

[AMR33]

What is the best way to warm up skylines? May seem like a silly question but the reason I ask is this.

With many German cars like BMW the manufacturers recommend to turn the car on, let it idle for a minute and then drive it nice and easy till it reaches the operating temp. This way the motor and gearbox warm up together.

Is this the best course to follow with a skyline or is it better to let it idle till it warms up enough and then drive?

I think I answered my self by posting this thread but would like to see what people think.

[GTR-N1]

Letting the oil circulate is all that's required > then drive.

Letting the engine oil warm up is all that's required > then boost.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Letting the oil circulate is all that's required > then drive.

Letting the engine oil warm up is all that's required > then boost.

Letting the tyres warm up > then traction

[GTR-N1]

OH YEAH!!!

[warps]

Did you know that when you could hire V8 statesmans (many years ago) on a cold start you could apparently hit the rev limiter before the oil light went out? A friend told me.

To answer OP question, don't waste time sitting in the driveway idling. Cars these days (ie for the last 30 years) are designed to drive off as soon as you start them and build up oil pressure. Drive slowly / lightly until it's warm then go nuts.

[GH05T]

yep,

letting it idle to warm up means slower warm up and less oil preassure which results in more wear on the engine.

[MrStabby]

Agree with all above. Start and drive normally until oil is up to temp, then go nuts. Leaving a cold motor idling is counter-productive.

[AMR33]

Makes sense, cheers all.

[GH05T]

learnt this with my 32,
had rough valve stem seals and warming it up on the driveway made it smoke worse

makes sence after thinking about it.

however my mate swears by starting it and after 10 seconds revving 1500 rpm constantly bliping it to 1500rpm.

recons it squirts oil up the engine. not sure but meh maby

[Gts-t]

Your mate is a wanker

[34GeeTeeTee]

however my mate swears by starting it and after 10 seconds revving 1500 rpm constantly bliping it to 1500rpm.

For those 10 seconds or less.......... I'm free!!!!

[Leroy Peterson]

what about warming up built/race cars?

my clutch and gearbox need to warm up before its driveable basically.

and the oil pressure is high and all over the place until its warmed up. So usually start it and either dab the throttle for a bit and leave it for 5-10mins just idling.

[warps]

With a race car with a crappy tune and animal clutch you don't have much of a choice. I had a group N Daihatsu charade rally car like that once. Yes, despite only 57kW at the wheels it was a pig to drive when cold (stuck with using factory sensors on a very old F7 Haltech, and a bitey 3 puck clutch). Once it was warm it drove like the (underpowered) shopping trolley it was.

I was happy to sell that gutless POS.

Still, if you can drive the car without having to warm it up first, then that's always your best bet.

[Elegant Skyline]

Don't know about others but when i start my r34 gtt i leave it to warm up until the needle temperature reached it's normal stance which is halfway as it takes

at least 6 minutes but thats just me.

[Chris32]

Don't know about others but when i start my r34 gtt i leave it to warm up until the needle temperature reached it's normal stance which is halfway as it takes

at least 6 minutes but thats just me.

Problem with that, as mentioned above - the oil pressure is at its minimum while its idling, and the ECU is adding more fuel to get it up to temp quicker.

Your way better just driving easily for the first 10 minutes and letting everything warm up together.

In the GTT you've got the advantage of an oil temp gauge - halfway on the coolant Temp needle could be anything. 10 minutes of light driving see's my oil temp stable at 80* and then its ready for whatever

Driveway ildling is pretty pointless, much like idling for minutes after you've stopped to cool your water cooled and oil fed turbo

[Leroy Peterson]

With a race car with a crappy tune and animal clutch you don't have much of a choice. I had a group N Daihatsu charade rally car like that once. Yes, despite only 57kW at the wheels it was a pig to drive when cold (stuck with using factory sensors on a very old F7 Haltech, and a bitey 3 puck clutch). Once it was warm it drove like the (underpowered) shopping trolley it was.

I was happy to sell that gutless POS.

Still, if you can drive the car without having to warm it up first, then that's always your best bet.

the cold start tune is fine. I'm only following the clutch instructions letting it warm up before driving and stabilise oil pressure.

[zoomzoom]

The only concern I have is the apparently common problem with RB25's starting up and chugging at very low rpms, or even dying out, unless you blip the throttle. I dont really trust that there is enough oil pressure at 500 rpm....

[tripsteady]

The only concern I have is the apparently common problem with RB25's starting up and chugging at very low rpms, or even dying out, unless you blip the throttle. I dont really trust that there is enough oil pressure at 500 rpm....

this

[Ben C34]

Don't know about others but when i start my r34 gtt i leave it to warm up until the needle temperature reached it's normal stance which is halfway as it takes

at least 6 minutes but thats just me.

Thats mental dude.

I don't think we should be looking to you for engine advice, based on your not revving over 3200 rev thread.

[Trex]

I know right Ben! Ten minutes minimum!! Otherwise it puts stress on the intake welds.