Tein Super Street Coilover Settings, Optimum Height & Camber For R32Gtr

[Marko R1]

Um....strange.

With respect to rotating tyres....I make it a golden rule to NEVER rotate tyres in such a way that they run in the opposite direction after they have bedded in. So that means rotating from front to rear is OK, but never from side to side.

It is possibly OK to do so these days, what with tyres being so well designed and strong and all that, but quite a few years ago a friend of mine who was an engineer with Bridgestone told me that tyre carcasses take a "set" once they have been run in a certain direction. And if you turn them around and run them the other way, the carcasse has to unwind and reset the other way, which loosens the belts and reduces tyre stiffness. All of which is generally undesirable both from the point of view of performance and longevity. On that basis, if you want/need to rotate side to side, they have to come off the rims and be flipped 180deg so they can go on the other side of the car without changing direction.

This may be old man bah humbug advice, but it makes perfect sense to me, so I stick with it.

ok - i'll swap them front to back so that i maintain the same rotation on each tyre, definitely makes sense.

Somethings wrong there - thats a massive difference. I'm guessing springs could be maybe up to 5mm different due to sag/manufacturing tolerance, but 35mm!

Will be interesting to see how it drives and what they say when you get the fine setup done.

yes it is odd. so i drove the car & it feels completely different. the pull to the left is almost non existent & with a heasmans wheel alignment / camber adjustment, it will be great!

its surprising how much more its tracks the road though BUT i am running 19inch wheels with 35 series tyres - this would be the main cause right (big wheels)? i also wonder if more aggressive 'toe out' was introduced, whether that would rectify this issue (my experience with racing rc cars is what worked here)

marko, could you chuck up a scan/pic of the tein manual's settings?

i'll take a pic & upload - the instructions are based on installation with very little detail on height & damper adjustment.

[MrStabby]

yes it is odd. so i drove the car & it feels completely different. the pull to the left is almost non existent & with a heasmans wheel alignment / camber adjustment, it will be great!

its surprising how much more its tracks the road though BUT i am running 19inch wheels with 35 series tyres - this would be the main cause right (big wheels)? i also wonder if more aggressive 'toe out' was introduced, whether that would rectify this issue

You mean toe in, right? Toe out makes it want to change direction, toe in makes it track straight. I'm sure heasmans will set it up nicely. I've got my coilovers back in so i'm going to call them now to book it in.

[Marko R1]

With rc cars, rule of thumb was toe in for over steer and loss of straight line stability and toe out for under steer and straight line stability

[Marko R1]

So I spoke to heasmans and they said correcting the car so it drives straight is done via castor adjustment (u were right MrStabby)...I know on the rear I've got camber adjustment as I can see the lower bolt has a washer surround with markings on it, however, I'm not sure on the front if the stock castor rods have adjustment on them as I was sold this was fitted when I bought the car. What is the easiest way to tell as the mounting bolts don't seem to have additional washers with markings but the bushing looks dark blue in colour and not standard.

[ichi-go]

It probably has an aftermarket castor bush on it to enable dialing in of the castor

Stock:

Aftermarket ones you can rotate the bush to adjust slight castor

Edited March 20, 2014 by ichi-go

[Marko R1]

Ok, so the actual bush is rotated with the bolt or u need to remove the bolt then rotate the bush by hand?

[GTSBoy]

Remove, set, reinstall. In practice they only ever get put in in one position, that being the shortest length.

[MrStabby]

My superpro bushes look a bit like the ones in the picture except they're tapered from the insert to the bush carrier, and the insert is dead center. I noticed when i pulled out the old radius rods that Heasmans had set one side to shortest and the other side to midway to make it track straight. The insert (I think its called a crush tube?) is a tight fit at the chassis mount, needed some rubber mallet encouragement. Anyway, my front suspension is all together now - nismo arm kit/new longer and softer springs/4 new ball joins/align and corner weight. Cant wait to track it again.

[Marko R1]

Very happy with Heasmans that I had to create a new thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/441449-doug-heasman-absolute-legend-with-unmatched-customer-service/