Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do some research online Zy and get a well recommended dinosaur guy to do it. They get good power from the old stuff and there is nothing new in engine technology.

What do you need? Rebore and hone? O Rings? Balance? Full clean out of the block and the crank? Put it all together?

Seriously, there is nothing a "Jap" engine builder can do any better or different, and they tend to charge more. All the info you need is on this website for finding the parts etc.

Remove and replace engine - $1500-2000 (less if you or your mate can do this)

Labour involved in the actual stripping down the engine, and putting it back together again - $1500-4000 (depends where you go)

Head service - $500

plus any extra machining, and all parts you want to replace.

Funny that!, we were also thinking about the next step for the GTR, as the 320kw at the rears is starting to bore me. My tuner said you can pick up brand new N1 motors from japan for around 10K.. but then there are varying models.

Do you buy a new N1 motor or spend the dosh on an engine rebuild?? I know what Blitz is saying "how long is a piece of string?" but if you were looking to hold a reliable ~700hp at the motor (~450-500kw at the wheels) on an RB26 would need to go the whole hog with cranks, blocks, etc ?? And does anyone have an "estimate" if this were the case?

Funny that!, we were also thinking about the next step for the GTR, as the 320kw at the rears is starting to bore me. My tuner said you can pick up brand new N1 motors from japan for around 10K.. but then there are varying models.  

Do you buy a new N1 motor or spend the dosh on an engine rebuild?? I know what Blitz is saying "how long is a piece of string?" but if you were looking to hold a reliable ~700hp at the motor (~450-500kw at the wheels) on an RB26 would need to go the whole hog with cranks, blocks, etc ?? And does anyone have an "estimate" if this were the case?

Just buy the N1 block, for extra strength, and rebuild it with all new forged parts. Perhaps an HKS 2.8 stroker or JUN 2.7 stroker...

No point in buying an entire N1 engine... the internals won't hold 700hp for very long.

I think you should just stick with the GT2530s though... If you shoot for that higher figure, the car will be really sluggish until about 5000-5500rpm and won't be fun to drive unless you're thrashing it 100% of the time...

Was speaking to a guy that does this on a daily basis..

He said around $3-4k labour all up - what it cost a lot isn't slapping the thing together but pulling it out and putting it back in the engine bay that cost the moolah due to the complexity of things. He just slapped something along the line:

* forgies

* rods

* N1 oil pump

* N1 water pump

* new gaskets/seals/bearings

* new timing belt

Plus quite a few bits I forgot (it was windy yesterday so I didn't pay a lot of attention..) all up just under $11k supplied, fitted and tuned.

My car is going in on Saturday and I should get it back in 2-3 weeks :)

I'm not going to publically list everything I'm doing, but it's basically a full engine strip, blueprinting and balancing, and rebuild from the ground up using uprated parts everywhere except for the crank.

Mainly for reliability for circuit work, than to hold the power, I won't be making that much with the GT-SS turbos...

NOS? :Oops:

5-6k Engine recon, head and bottom end, forgies, including $600 to pull out/put in engine.

2k to recond turbos, bearing/seal kits.

$650 new clutch and $150 new radiator.

Said to expect to pay $8-10k with all of this done... Yikes!

Scary how these costs build up on top of one another.

Guys stop whoring the thread hey.

Zy that sounds reasonable for the job, but I always like to get people to think on the DIY side. All that labour (you are looking at under 2K parts, arias forgies for the RB25 were 1300 overnite and I threw in GTR rods for the hell of it, and more redline)

Obviously the turbo work is a hand over and get 'em back good, but a chainblock will cost $150 and an engine stand $300 then get the tools for the job and future tasks for about $500 and you are set for life. TAFE courses in the subject of mechanics and engine building are pretty handy as well. My welding needs some polish so I am back to TAFE for a refresher.

That feeling of DIY when you kick her over the first time still gets me and I am a mechanic with a mechanical engineering degree, but it is not hard, you just need to be precise and use checklists. First time rebuild I had no manuals so had to work out the torque settings myself, but the army taught me to be a rapid combat repair mechanic so when I got the manuals i found I was almost spot on, within 5 Nm for the big ends and perfect for the cams etc.

Mesh. I reckon I'll get about 320rwkw when the PFC finally goes in and is tuned so the GTR will need that upgrade. I am shopping for a new turbo tho......

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...