Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How to Install Do-Luck Ignition Harness for R33 GTR.

 

post-120471-0-91263100-1394361561_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-42968800-1394361589_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-89095800-1394361604_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-55543000-1394361676_thumb.jpg

Tools Needed:

  • 4mm Allen Key for Valley Cover
  • Pliers for Blow By Hose's
  • 8mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket
  • 12mm Socket
  • 14mm Socket for Strut Tower Bar
  • Ratchet with short extension

Step 1:

Once Strut Tower bar is removed, Use a 4mm Allen Key to remove the 8 bolts from the Valley Cover. Then use pliers to move the clip down the hose of the blow by hose.

post-120471-0-59885400-1394361750_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-36478300-1394361859_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-96439200-1394361933_thumb.jpg

Step 2:

Then use a 8mm socket to remove the transistor earth cable, Once that is Done remove the Connector off the transistor unit.

post-120471-0-81321900-1394362024_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-48234800-1394362096_thumb.jpg

Step 3:

Remove Valley Cover and Unplug Coil Harness Transistor Connector. Next Remove the 6 Coil Pack Connector.

post-120471-0-43722100-1394362745_thumb.jpg

Step 4:

Use a 10mm socket with short extension to remove the Coil Pack Harness Earth Cable

post-120471-0-70385700-1394362199_thumb.jpg

Step 5:

Remove the Intake Side Blow-By Hose and then Unplug Connector. Now you can remove the whole Coil Pack Harness.

post-120471-0-80099400-1394362344_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-52050300-1394362405_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-30724400-1394362281_thumb.jpg

Old OEM Harness Removed

post-120471-0-53834000-1394364045_thumb.jpg

Step 6:

Installing the Do-Luck Harness, There are 3 parts to this: The Harness, Earth Cable and Direct Power Feed with Extension Cable.

First sit the Do-Luck Harness in place and connect the harness earth cable and the Thick Blue Earth Cable to the same coil harness earth point. ( Behind Coil Pack Number 6 ).

post-120471-0-09856100-1394362901_thumb.jpg

 

 

Next there is a Connector on the end of the Do-Luck Harness this connects near the intake side blow-by hose.

post-120471-0-81507400-1394363100_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-63332700-1394363158_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-46631800-1394363419_thumb.jpg

Once that is done connect all the coil pack connector’s on.

post-120471-0-05674800-1394363650_thumb.jpg

Step 7:

Connect the Thick Blue Earth Cable anywhere in the engine bay. I connected mine near the ABS system.

post-120471-0-17372200-1394363739_thumb.jpg

Step 8:

Connecting the Direct Power Feed with Extension Cable. First Connect the Extension Cable to the end Coil Pack Harness once that is done connect the other end to the direct power feed unit.

post-120471-0-45426800-1394364274_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-42968800-1394361589_thumb.jpg

Step 9

Connect the Direct Battery Feed Unit to the relay box as shown in the photo below and then connect the Direct Battery Feed Unit Earth to either one of theses Earth points shown in the photo below.

post-120471-0-50712400-1394363880_thumb.jpg

post-120471-0-16818900-1394363936_thumb.jpg

Now it all Connected Up double check that everything is connected and then reconnect all the transistor plugs and transistor earth point. Then reinstall Valley Cover and Tower Strut Bar.

post-120471-0-17372200-1394363739_thumb.jpg

Step 10:

Everything is DONE!! Start it up and take it for a spin.

Results:

When I started the car up the exhaust tone changed and then I gave it a few revs 3000- 4000 rpm and it wasn’t backfire anymore. Next I took it for a 15min drive up to 7000 rpm and it wasn’t backfiring under boost as it did sometimes.

More testing is required to see if it has removed the under 3000 rpm Miss problem and Backfiring under boost problem.

I will keep everyone posted on further result’s but so far I’m happy with the Result.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440274-do-luck-ignition-harness-install/
Share on other sites

What's the performance difference between Do-luck and OEM ?

I see it says enhanced in the link - what does that mean - how ?

Never mind, Googled

Apparently uses thicker wire for better strength of signal/power (1.6x's thicker)

Coupled with the "direct wire" from battery (extra) improves voltage delivery.

Edited by Sinista32

Took the car out for more testing 70km trip and the backfire problem under boost is gone. The Under 3000rpm miss is still there but not as often.

My Setup:

  • Copper Core Spark Plugs 0.8 gap
  • Splitfire Coil Packs
  • Do-Luck Coil Harness
  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...