Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, not a massive project or overhaul but a build thread none the less,

My names Kyle and from Melbourne, now 26 and owned an R32 GTS-T for 6 years when i turned 18 and for some stupid reason sold it. Drove K11 Micras around for 3 years and on Sunday i finally bought my dream car an R32 GT-R. Some people dream of Ferrari's and Lamborghini's but for me an R32 GT-R is the ultimate car in my eyes to own.

Found it on carsales and fell in love, motor had already been built and it has already been resprayed, two of the biggest things that cost money and for the price it was well worth snapping it up so Sunday i flew up to Sydney and fell in love for the second time (I'm married lol). Drove it back and am well impressed, body feels tight and had no issues on the way back.

Here's spec list from the sale thread, am yet to have anything verified by anyone I only got it Sunday so...

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32

112XXX on the body allegedly however I've got the import papers from when it was imported in 2006 and it was imported with 112,200km's on it so somehow the odometer has gone backwards (yes sarcasm intended). 8,500km's on the motor since rebuild.

BODY:

  • Full respray in GT-R Spark Silver Metallic KL0
  • Front lip resprayed, plastic in ducts removed
  • Guard indicators deleted
  • N1 front bar ducts
  • Carbon rear boot lip
  • Front number plate side mounted
  • Aftermarket headlights inside has been painted black
  • Aftermarket clear front indicators.
  • Plastic weather strips
  • HID headlights
  • N1 GT-R skirts

INTERIOR:

  • Stock front and rear seats
  • MOMO sports steering wheel
  • No name brand shifter
  • Shadow Racing gauges
  • Clarion head unit
  • Tinted windows

ENGINE:

Claimed 220awkw standard boost forged rebuild, was built at Unique Autosports, I'm going to email them see if they have all the details on the build, i have receipts for:

  • ACL pistons
  • Gates timing belt
  • N1 oil pump
  • Nitto extended crank collar

Also came with:

  • R34 GT-R engine covers painted gold
  • Clear cam gear cover
  • Apexi NUR catback
  • Aftermarket downpipes
  • Factory airbox and BOVs
  • NDC race bearings
  • Machined head.
  • R33 GT-R turbos
  • Trust FMIC
  • 50mm stainless radiator
  • Exedy HD clutch
  • IMPUL ECU

SUSPENSION/WHEELS:

  • G4 coilovers
  • Adjustable camber arms
  • Neotech castor arms
  • 18x9.5 Enkei RPF1's with 225/35 Federal SS595's

Its an awesome car to drive, pulls like a champ although has 4th gear syncro issues so can be a pain to get in sometimes, my plans for it are:

  • Remove MOMO wheel and replace with standard, much prefer the standard over any sports wheel.
  • Remove shadow gauges and install either Apexi or Defi water temp and boost.
  • Find new dash and replace.
  • Replace gear boot and handbrake boot.
  • Replace stereo fascia as it is cracked.
  • Either get some fatter tyres for the wheels or buy new wheels and sell Enkei's. I wasn't super keen on the Enkei's to begin with and the size tyre on it is just stupid, it aint no drifter!
  • Get a boost controller and put some more boost through it, may start looking to build a decent motor down the track.
  • Install Trust DD exhaust instead of Apexi one.
  • Remove carbon lip and install body coloured fibreglass one.
  • Install factory weather shields.
  • Install early model headlights (square type)
  • Remove rear NISMO badge (don't even think there's a NISMO item on the car)
  • Install stock floor mats

I'm sure the list will get longer and longer but for now I'm just going to enjoy the shit out of it until November when the reg is up then decide whether to garage it and club/historic reg or keep it full. I plan on keeping this car for a very long time.

Cheers CC's welcome!

Kyle

post-24032-0-92543800-1394523054_thumb.jpg

post-24032-0-85872800-1394523062_thumb.jpg

post-24032-0-26094800-1394523072_thumb.jpg

post-24032-0-48959100-1394523174_thumb.jpg

post-24032-0-15663700-1394523208_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Nice car dude. I'm sure you will enjoy it.

You need to look at getting a shroud around that fan, they are very inefficient without it.

Thats a good idea actually thanks didn't even look for that! I'd say its been left out because of the thicker radiator definitely look into it.

Not a fan of the clear position lights. for some reason In my mind an R32 has to have the old school orange position light

Yeah i don't like them either, orange are definitely on the cards.

Congrats mate. IIRC this car was advertised here as well?

That engine bay looks so good!

Yeah it was advertised here i think you commented in the thread :)

Looks like a great base to start off with mate.

Not a fan of the clear position lights. for some reason In my mind an R32 has to have the old school orange position light

Personally I think the indicator/headlight combo he has looks great :)

Only thing that bothers me is when people start messing with the tail lights.

Wheels look good too, will look good with some 265's on them? They're +22 Offset?

Looks like a great base to start off with mate.

Personally I think the indicator/headlight combo he has looks great :)

Only thing that bothers me is when people start messing with the tail lights.

Wheels look good too, will look good with some 265's on them? They're +22 Offset?

Not too sure on the offset ill have to have a look when I take them off. Im not sure if I want to keep the wheels I do like them but I think im after something a bit more period correct :)

Anyone else with a GT-R jump on here :)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/GTRclubaus/

Nice clean looking car man. What's plans for the car? Mods/events?

Thanks dude, plans not sure yet will drive around for a bit as is until I get the hunger for more power, I do want to attend a trackday like a deca or something, we'll see :)

Today I gave the interior a full going over theres a few little bits and pieces I need to get it back to its former glory but its not too bad for a 24 year old car. I installed my factory option centre console cupholder and the other picture is where im mounting my gopro for tonights mountain run hopefully doesnt wobble too much I need a tripod with longer legs :/

post-24032-0-59509200-1395127094_thumb.jpg

post-24032-0-26689800-1395127117_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...