Jump to content
SAU Community

Damage On Cam Cover - Rb26

mwillis5
 Share

Recommended Posts

mwillis5 Rookie

mwillis5

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forums and didn't know exactly where to put this thread, mods please feel free to move it to it's propper location and let me know for future reference.

Essentially I am looking at buying my very first Skyline (I've wanted one for a decade but I finally have the money), I have done all the checks that I can think of and it seems like a great buy for the price and I am going for a test drive this weekend before I make a decision. It is an R33 GTR V-Spec. As close to stock as you can typically find these days. It's has twin pod filters and a turbo-back exhaust. Any suggestions on what to look out for when inspecting it are also welcome. (Have already read the thread on buying a skyline so have lots of ideas from there). According to the owner it has done 75,000kms.

However! I wanted to ask the experts (you guys) what may have caused the damage on the cam cover that you can see in the attached picture? The paintwork is gone for some reason, owner didn't know as he has only had the car 1.5 years and it was like that when he got it.

I guess any opinions on the overall condition as you see it would also be much appreciated but I just wanted to know what could cause the kind of marking you can see in the engine bay?

Cheers,

Mike

post-133450-0-63438700-1394525318_thumb.jpg

post-133450-0-27885900-1394525320_thumb.jpg

Edited by mwillis5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440375-damage-on-cam-cover-rb26/
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Yeah odos are rarely correct (despite what the owner might say, or even think) so just buy on condition. Strongly suggest you get a pre purchase inspection from a shop that knows skylines. I wouldn't be worried about the paint.

Also - make sure you get comprehensive insurance. If you cant afford that, you cant afford the car IMO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT > GTT compatibilities

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • GTSBoy
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • GTSBoy
      Rear hub bolt torque r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...