Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they were proper tmu, i didnt even have a spark plug cover on that says 2500cc. but it took they a while. but i supose when it says you are ment to have a 1.8 4 in there and there is a huge ass 6 in there it isnt hard to pick. he mite have seen the 6 coil packs. ohh well too late now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44038-engineering-vic/#findComment-899833
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

JPC? as if any cars that workshops do these days are engineered.

You have to contact Vic Roads for engineers etc.

Oh, BTW, if you've gone from a CA - to RB25... you'll need to ahve brakes and a number of other things done too as a thing to remember, the engineer will pick it right off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44038-engineering-vic/#findComment-917745
Share on other sites

You can get your car engineered at Maztech in Thomastown for $600 if the motor you've put in hasn't been modified yet. For every modification it's an extra $60?! Just make sure the brakes have been upgraded, Computer is standard, Airpod is secure and doesn't move and make sure all the polution stuff is there. You also have to take your car to a weight bridge and they'll give you a print out of the wieght and get an EPA test, and then take the EPA and wieight certificate back to Maztech with all the other things done.. they'll check it - and send out a certificate in the mail. When you first take your car there they'll give it a pre-engineers check and that's about $65. I personally didn't end up getting my car engineered there cause I wasn't too happy with the service they provided.. twice my car was booked in and I left my car there for a full day and nothing was looked at. So decided never to take it back. I think if you ring most performace places you'll find they will do it - they just ring up engineers to come in and do it.

Hope this has helped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44038-engineering-vic/#findComment-918361
Share on other sites

u could try RevZone in nundawading .. however u spell it .. Varman Crt just near springvale and whitehorse road .. they had a silvia with a Rb20 in there ... but that got prohibited about 3 weeks after it made it onto the road.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44038-engineering-vic/#findComment-918420
Share on other sites

SIR-JD, considering aftermarket ECU's are illegal, you have SFA chance of someone signing it off with the motec

yeh i am in the process of ripping the MoTeC out - all placeses i have rang so fare have quoted around the 500 mark to take it out and hook up the stock ECU.

dose anyone have any contacts in melb that could do better??

thanks, jonathan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44038-engineering-vic/#findComment-923343
Share on other sites

in a GTR the motec still needs the stock ECU to run the attessa system. So as long as your motec is away from the stock ECU and hidden somewhere...say under the passenger seat, then you shouldnt have a problem.

I have also spoken to a motec installer and he said the Motec is the only aftermarket ECU that can be tuned and passed under EPA and ADR's.

i dont see the problem with having an aftermarket ECU providing the Emmissions can be read and that your car passes the emmissions test.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44038-engineering-vic/#findComment-923894
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...