Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With genuine OR decent aftermarket LS coils.. what spark gap & boost are you guys running?

I'm running Splitfires with 0.65mm gap at 3.5ms dwell and they're blowing out at 1.5bar+ when warm..

I started off at only 2.8ms dwell but kept on adding more to stop the misfiring - however it seems to start misfiring after a 20 minute drive even with high dwell. I don't want to push them any higher in case they fail.

I'm really considering converting to LS coils (that was the initial plan but got lazy).

John what ecu?

Try a set of BKR7eix @ 0.55mm for shits and giggles, nice clean idle and should hold close to 30-35psi with splitfires. If your concerned with the outlay try borrow some factory platinum and gap to 0.55mm and test for missfire (the heat range is no good but a few runs wont hurt)

ive done back to back comparos with the eix @0.55mm and a set of coppers @ 0.8mm with ls coils and they were within 1-2kw at 420rwkw.

we use coppers in most things but with ignition missfire prone cars we run the small gap irridiums.... you dont want to go as low (gap) with coppers as they dont idle or low load cruise as nice.

Hey Trent, using an Adaptronic ECU with a Hypergear SS2 self tuned. I initially thought I had too much/too little timing and that caused the misfire but with less/flat timing around that area or more it still made no difference. Reference at 1.6bar 3900rpm onwards I've only got 16 degrees of timing and it increases to 18 by redline. Very lazy timing ramp.

I've read and seen with the EVO boys when not enough timing is used with E85 their cars would misfire and or knock. I'm putting my bets against E85 having a slower burn hence it needs the advance to ignite properly.

I'll definitely give the platinum plugs a try with that gap!

However I do see you're recommending 7 heat range plugs, I'm still using 6 based on the understanding E85 doesn't like colder plugs. I do however have a spare set of BCPR7ES at home which I could try next (since I've already bought them) before buying the platinum plugs.

  • Like 1

I had issues with Denso iridium IKH22's, but NGK iridium 7's seem to last well in mine Johnny. Anything hotter seems to melt in a few thousand. As Trent mentioned, small gaps work well if misfiring, but be careful gapping them down they are brittle.

yup stay away from the metal heat sink ones if possible i had a few come in from other places with detonation issues and it was because they were tuned with too much dwell.... its a documented fact they have cost guys engines.

we always recommend running the;

C1512

D514A

OEM part 12573190

and are able to run low dwell and up to 1.5mm gaps with boost.

​If you do choose to run with the inferior truck ones just make sure you keep the dwell in check.

Just wondering what you usually dwell these coils at?

Edited by PSI086

I run the ls2 round truck coils in my race car at 5ms dwell no issues, that is with coil near plug on ls1.

I believe the d585s are the strongest output oem coil you can get. Im sure I read somewhere that GM made them for flex fuel suv's/trucks which explains the output and why they are the most sought after when upgrading ls ignition systems.

Edited by r33_racer

5ms is really flirting with danger. 4.5 @1000rpm and 4.2 peak rpm at most is safest.

At 5ms we noticed definite issues with some when ignition was strobed at a crank level.

Factory coils are also dwell limited (updated factory calibration) for this reason.

post-34927-0-46593900-1412121477_thumb.jpeg

Trent, when running nistune how are you adjusting the tables to get the correct dwell.

As you would know it's not as straight forward as different ecu's.

I found I had to modify both tables to get it acceptable, but even then the ecu does some weird stuff with the dwell (reducing it) on a series 2 stagea. Matt seems to think only the voltage correction table needs adjusting.

I appreciate your time sharing what you have found so far.

Ben

The GM D585 coils are perfectly safe when dwell is kept below 4.0MS. There are numerous 2jZs in the US successfully running boost in the 40s at 3.4 MS dwell with the truck coils. Out of several hundred users of my 2JZ coil-on plug kits, I have had reports from only 3 having misfire problems caused by coils.

The overdwell timing drift is well understood - I have personally seen blown engines, both 2J and RB from this cause. It does seem to be ECU type dependent, as I ran 5.0 with my Haltech PS2000 for a year with no issues. (I have since reduced dwell with no apparent detriment) The failures I've seen are with Proefi and AEM. The upshot here is that there is no need to go above 3.4 with good coils, good tune, and no other problems.

There is some evidence that some coils misfire due to overheating - I'm investigating that now.

  • Like 1

slightly related, however related to my previous posts.

I've taken Trent's advice and gapped my new set of plugs down to 0.55mm and running 7 range plugs - idle noticeably not as silky smooth but at least it's not spluttering. At 1.6bar there's still a little breakdown, which I am thinking could be coil related.

Then last night, I was going through my logs.. I noticed something VERY strange.. my voltage (recorded at the ECU) is around 13.6V on idle which is good however each time the car comes on boost the voltage falls back close to 12.1V - now that can't be good.

This could be the very reason why I keep getting misfiring issues with whatever dwell setting I've set.

Next is to replace my alternator and see if it goes away

why not test the alternator before changing it to see if that is the actual problem?

slightly related, however related to my previous posts.

I've taken Trent's advice and gapped my new set of plugs down to 0.55mm and running 7 range plugs - idle noticeably not as silky smooth but at least it's not spluttering. At 1.6bar there's still a little breakdown, which I am thinking could be coil related.

Then last night, I was going through my logs.. I noticed something VERY strange.. my voltage (recorded at the ECU) is around 13.6V on idle which is good however each time the car comes on boost the voltage falls back close to 12.1V - now that can't be good.

This could be the very reason why I keep getting misfiring issues with whatever dwell setting I've set.

Next is to replace my alternator and see if it goes away

Next is to replace my alternator and see if it goes away

check charging voltage at battery first and then check at the terminals on the alternator, this will tell you if your wiring has been chewed through over the years like mine was.

if alternator works fine run and 'T' a 30-40amp wire from battery to the positive main wire on the coilpack loom with a relay and 30-40amp fuse

There is no need to push the D585 into the timing drift areas with big dwells. Safe sub- 4.0MS dwell numbers have supported over 1000whp.

If you use the LS2 coils below 4.0ms dwell numbers is it still considered to have much more power than Stock OEM or Spitfire Coils?

i see alot of info with the nistune, but is there more ability to use these with a haltech platinum pro ?

i am very interested in setting this up

All you need to be able to do is adjust the dwell. Any aftermarket ecu has that ability.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...