Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

This kit looks like it would be an easy plug and play kit! :yes:

http://www.mojoperf.com/drupal/node/21

I bought the RB26/LS2 coil brackets and springs from Rick at Mojo Performance recently and finished installing it over the weekend.

His brackets really are mint - saves you the hassle of having to make up brackets if you want a decent looking finish. I did the wiring myself, wasn't particularly difficult given there's a few guides out there on the net but was pretty fiddly at times. The coil cover should fit back over aswell which is good.

Anyway, recommend having a look at the above link if you're wanting to do something similar - just makes life so much easier!

post-132-0-30848300-1404646558_thumb.jpg

post-132-0-84949600-1404646584_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Some info on using the GM truck coils:

Although spark power does increase with dwell times up to 6MS, dwell should be kept below 4.0 MS, only increased while closely monitoring for timing drift. These coils have an overcurrent protection mode (probably aggravated by the non-use of resistive plug wires in this application) that will cause timing drift in the ADVANCED direction. I know of several 2JZ engines (and 1 RB) gave been destroyed on the dyno by too much dwell. This seems to be somewhat dependent on type of ECU used but it pays to be safe. 2JZ users have made well over 1K WHP at boost levels in the 40s using 3.5 MS dwell.

To be sure of quality and performance, use only AC Delco D585, GM part 10457730. Many of the replacement (Chinese copies) coils do not provide the performance of the AC Delco pieces.

  • Like 2

Some info on using the GM truck coils:

Although spark power does increase with dwell times up to 6MS, dwell should be kept below 4.0 MS, only increased while closely monitoring for timing drift. These coils have an overcurrent protection mode (probably aggravated by the non-use of resistive plug wires in this application) that will cause timing drift in the ADVANCED direction. I know of several 2JZ engines (and 1 RB) gave been destroyed on the dyno by too much dwell. This seems to be somewhat dependent on type of ECU used but it pays to be safe. 2JZ users have made well over 1K WHP at boost levels in the 40s using 3.5 MS dwell.

To be sure of quality and performance, use only AC Delco D585, GM part 10457730. Many of the replacement (Chinese copies) coils do not provide the performance of the AC Delco pieces.

Great info there, and it explains a lot. Thanks.

It is also important to use resistive type spark plugs with the COP installation of these coils. Non-resistive plugs cause the coils to go into the overcurrent mode and drift/overheat.

polzin, I'll get out my diagram and post pin numbers shortly.

  • Like 2

The overcurrent conditions mentioned apply to the round truck coils with the heat sinks on top - . I think this is a consequence of mounting directly on-plug without the resistive plug wires as in stock use.

I have not heard of this occurring with other LSx coils, but then all the others do not lend themselves to on-plug mounting. This is a fortunate coincidence as the truck coils deliver almost 2X the spark power of any of the others.

So by adjusting dwell below 4.0ms would be safe and still much more powerful than stock coils?

Yes.

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2423&sid=5af4ed3fce4bc8b76abfbce93cc0eda8&start=30

Read status' s post towards the bottom regarding which coils to get and why.

Edited by Ben C34

If you're going to go to the bother of doing the swap, get the D585 truck coils.

Did you read the link I posted?

280 bucks for 8 brand new and have made 1000rwhp.

Seems ok to me. And don't have the dwell issues.

Did you read the link I posted?

280 bucks for 8 brand new and have made 1000rwhp.

Seems ok to me. And don't have the dwell issues.

Yeah, I read your link. He doesn't mention the D585. If you research the coil conversion properly rather than spewing out something you saw on one forum you will see that most people suggest the D585 as being the preferred option. All I'm saying is, if you're going to go to the effort of doing the swap, then you may as well use the best coils possible. I paid $280 for 6, delivered; I don't need 8.

  • Like 1

Yeah, I read your link. He doesn't mention the D585. If you research the coil conversion properly rather than spewing out something you saw on one forum you will see that most people suggest the D585 as being the preferred option. All I'm saying is, if you're going to go to the effort of doing the swap, then you may as well use the best coils possible. I paid $280 for 6, delivered; I don't need 8.

Right.

How much effort is it really? A little wiring and some brackets....

I have done my research and had already done the conversion using those coils status mentioned. I don't need the most powerful coils ever, neither do you probably.

Your right, he doesn't mention the D585 coils. He does however say the ones linked do not have the dwell limiting problem that the other coils have.

Quote:

Lots of testing has been done on all the variants and this one does not false fire (effectively uncontrolled added advance) at higher dwell levels like the others.

Seems like the sensible choice. Even if it's not the most powerful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...