First Time Engine Build. Rb25/30 Neo Advice

[scotty nm35]

I'm doing this on a 2.8 atm, GTX3076 with .82 externally gated off the stock manifold. Should be very responsive.

[iruvyouskyrine]

As for a power figure, when running 20+ psi and maxxed out i would ideally like it to make around 400kw.

But as the car will be used primarily for drifting when i drop it to the tuner (probably JEM or DVS Jez) i am just going to tell them to make it as safe as possible and i don't care how much power (within reason) has to be sacrificed. I think it should make 300kw on an ultra safe tune. Is all this possible with a Hypergear SS2?

[iruvyouskyrine]

I'm doing this on a 2.8 atm, GTX3076 with .82 externally gated off the stock manifold. Should be very responsive.

Whats an ETA on the finish date? Is it a stroked 26 or 25? I presume you mean a standard 25 manifold.

After seeing all the RB2530 results with GT35's it has me a little nervous the old GT30 will be struggling up top.

[scotty nm35]

Stroked 25, running an auto box though. He is hoping for a responsive 350kw, should probably just do 400kw on a manual car with no restrictions, you may want the 1.06 rear though, and must be external gated.

[hypergear]

As for a power figure, when running 20+ psi and maxxed out i would ideally like it to make around 400kw.

But as the car will be used primarily for drifting when i drop it to the tuner (probably JEM or DVS Jez) i am just going to tell them to make it as safe as possible and i don't care how much power (within reason) has to be sacrificed. I think it should make 300kw on an ultra safe tune. Is all this possible with a Hypergear SS2?

The SS2 won't be making 400rwkws. It will get you a super responsive 360rwkws mark on E85 fuel working with RB30det engine. You will be looking at SS3 or SS4 for some thing 400rwkws+. Also I'm not too sure how doable it is on stock manifold, might need to run a proper high mount.

[iruvyouskyrine]

The SS2 won't be making 400rwkws. It will get you a super responsive 360rwkws mark on E85 fuel working with RB30det engine. You will be looking at SS3 or SS4 for some thing 400rwkws+. Also I'm not too sure how doable it is on stock manifold, might need to run a proper high mount.

I thought as much. Would have been nice to crack 400 but i thought it would run out of puff. Out of your turbos what would you recommend for just being able to crack 400kw? IE what turbo would be maxing out at around 400, as most of the time i would be running much less than that and would like it as responsive as possible.

Edited April 27, 2014 by iruvyouskyrine

[iruvyouskyrine]

And yes as i said before proper high mount with 45mm external wastegate

[R32Abuser]

Currently have an RB25/30DET with ~9:1 CR CP Pistons, little to no head work done (R32 RB25DE head), with Tomei 256°/8.5mm cams. GT3076R strapped to the side of it (I bought Cubes' turbo off him!).

Car made 281RWKW @ 18 PSI on a pretty conservative dyno (Jaustech) - dyno plot is in the RB30 Dyno thread/sticky img-301131610-0001 (2).pdf

Realistically, if I had more AFM (Q45 @ 5.1V) and bigger injectors (was at about 90%) it would have hit the 300 easy with good boost control. But tbh, I didn't care about the number as all I was after was response. Makes ~220-230 RWKW @ 4000RPM which is far more than my diff and tyres can handle.

Only regret I have is not using a Neo head for the build. Would have meant I could achieve around 9:1 CR with a stock bottom end and the head is better anyway. Also would have meant I could run VCT

Edited April 30, 2014 by R32Abuser

[hypergear]

I thought as much. Would have been nice to crack 400 but i thought it would run out of puff. Out of your turbos what would you recommend for just being able to crack 400kw? IE what turbo would be maxing out at around 400, as most of the time i would be running much less than that and would like it as responsive as possible.

For this size engine you can run a SS-4 turbo. That maxed at 435rwkws. It is more responsive then a 3582 also.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Hi #@R32Abuser thanks for that mate

Sorry for this but here come the questions haha

What size rear housing is the 3076 running?

And i'm guessing it is revving to 7000 RPM?

98 or E85?

Certainly a nice looking graph either way, mine should look even better with 9.5 CR and VCT! I'm thinking i should just stop worrying about numbers and enjoy the car when it's done. I'm sure it will fry tyres just fine.

[R32Abuser]

What size rear housing is the 3076 running? 0.82 Rear

98 or E85? BP98

Cutout at 7000RPM. That said the thing was starting to nose over up top anyway.

VCT would be awesome - well worth the small amount of effort. 9.5:1 is definately getting up there in terms of Static CR.

Initially, I was having big issues with the motor pinging not being able to take more than about 8 degrees of advance. I thought it was CR initially and that the builder had f**ked up. Long story short, went to another tuner and made more power and no pinging (using knock ears).

[iruvyouskyrine]

Awesome, thanks for that mate. Hopefully mine should be a good thing! Just have to get it all together now

[iruvyouskyrine]

Hi guys, I am finally assembling the engine just a quick one, do I have the knock sensors in the correct position or do they go on the lower bosses? Thanks.

[Ben C34]

That's correct.

[GTRPSI]

Uppers are the way to go.

Those oil restrictors, if rebuilding i dont knock the new ones over the old, i pull the old one out, you would be surprised how much gunk collects under them, i knock the new one in after cleaning the block.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yeah i wouldn't be surpsised to see a fair bit of stuff there after 20 years of running. Unfortunately it's too late now as the head is already on haha, this bottom end was untouched anyway. If it was doing a bottom end rebuild i would pull them out for sure!

[iruvyouskyrine]

Okay i have what is hopefully the last quiestion.

I have this from Simon that was posted in another thread

its easy as... drop the sump, then undo the large pressure relief valve nut, inside is a spring and a ball bearing. leave them there, then get 2xm6 flat washers (i used spring washers and then bent them in vice to become flat) and place 2 of them on top of the spring and then refit the cap. reseal the sump.

should get an extra 20psi out of it.

I had my engine on a stand when i removed the relief valve. I was careful to remove the nut and spring carefully, but then as i placed them down something else fell out. It looks like a bucket type thing, will post a pic in a second. But can anyone tell me which direction and order these things go back in. Annoying because i tried hard to keep it all together i just didnt realize there was another thing in there. Also i don't know what ball bearing simon is talking about, i can't see one in there.

[iruvyouskyrine]

I'm 99% sure this is how it goes and it's just the seat for the spring and I know people will laugh for me asking, but it's better to be safe than sorry

[r33_racer]

That looks pretty well like it. So what Simon is saying is stick your washer or two in the seat under the spring in the screw in plug. Good job so far.

Only thing I would do is add a crankcase vent off the sump somewhere (typically intake side above oil level) while the engine is outside of the car. Even if you don't use it, its there for later on.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yeah I was sure that's the way it went back together. I added 2x M6 washers which added an extra 3mm preload to the spring.

Also got the crankcase ventilation sorted, got my sump baffled and trapdoors added. Also got 2x -10 AN fittings welded to the sump