First Time Engine Build. Rb25/30 Neo Advice

[Huzqld]

Is that a plenum to suit a normal 25? If so how'd you go fitting it on the neo head?

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yeah it's a greddy copy. The only reason it's not advertised as fitting the R34/Neo head is the IACV is different. You can just make up an adaptor and use the Neo IACV (have seen pictures of it done on this forum) it you could use an R33 IACV, which is probably what I will end up doing.

[Simon-S14]

Okay i have what is hopefully the last quiestion.

I have this from Simon that was posted in another thread

I had my engine on a stand when i removed the relief valve. I was careful to remove the nut and spring carefully, but then as i placed them down something else fell out. It looks like a bucket type thing, will post a pic in a second. But can anyone tell me which direction and order these things go back in. Annoying because i tried hard to keep it all together i just didnt realize there was another thing in there. Also i don't know what ball bearing simon is talking about, i can't see one in there.

yeah i usually do it with the engine upside down on the stand,. so much easier to work on and take sump on and off.

[iruvyouskyrine]

I would have just had no one to help me turn the engine on the stand haha. Also saw you at DCA Simon, car sounded absolutely insane! What exhaust are you running? Is it a fully stainless system?

[Simon-S14]

nah its some bits and pieces of mild steel i had lying merging into a 4" straight bit of stainless haha.

goes alright for a stock rb30 ey

[iruvyouskyrine]

nah its some bits and pieces of mild steel i had lying merging into a 4" straight bit of stainless haha.

goes alright for a stock rb30 ey

Hahah, what isn't homebrew in your car?! I am going tried and true 3" straight through staino with a 4" tip (just for looks)

Also, progress!

[KiwiRS4T]

Hahah, what isn't homebrew in your car?! I am going tried and true 3" straight through staino with a 4" tip (just for looks)

Also, progress!

You may find you need an R33 Clutch master as your current one may impact the ffp

[Simon-S14]

looking good!

[Blackkers]

awesome progress mate good to see it all fits! The greddy style intake is definitely a good idea. Did you have any trouble getting the motor into the 32? It looks like the bonnet will close without any issues

Edited July 6, 2014 by Blackkers

[iruvyouskyrine]

You may find you need an R33 Clutch master as your current one may impact the ffp

Yep found that out. Had to remove it to be able to drop the engine in. Already have on lined up

looking good!

Yeah, so happy with my decision to paint the engine bay. The silver looks really good imo.

awesome progress mate good to see it all fits! The greddy style intake is definitely a good idea. Did you have any trouble getting the motor into the 32? It looks like the bonnet will close without any issues

Yeah the forward facing plenum is so much better aesthetically, how they should have come from factory IMO. The engine still sits quite high, i explained it in my post in the projects/builds section. Will get a side on pic of it to show how high it sits for you. We quickly dropped the bonnet on and it seems like it will fit if i cut the ribbing out from the underside of the bonnet

[Huzqld]

Yeah it's a greddy copy. The only reason it's not advertised as fitting the R34/Neo head is the IACV is different. You can just make up an adaptor and use the Neo IACV (have seen pictures of it done on this forum) it you could use an R33 IACV, which is probably what I will end up doing.

Cheers man, I'll be using an aftermarket ecu and stepper motor so that won't be an issue. One other thing, how do you go fitting top feed injectors to the 25 plenum, just a case of the right top feed rail?

Also great progress! looks good.

Edited July 6, 2014 by Huzqld

[Blackkers]

you're killing it dude, I'm super jealous

[iruvyouskyrine]

Cheers man, I'll be using an aftermarket ecu and stepper motor so that won't be an issue. One other thing, how do you go fitting top feed injectors to the 25 plenum, just a case of the right top feed rail?

Also great progress! looks good.

The standard Neo rail will bolt right up to it. I never tried to put standard injectors in so i'm not sure if they will fit.

I am using an Aeroflow rail and X-Spurt 1000cc top feed injectors and its all good. Just need to make a spacer to put in between the plenum and rail to space it out for the length of injector you will be using, that's the real trick. Any old rail should bolt up it's just the length of spacer you have to get correct.

you're killing it dude, I'm super jealous

Cheers mate, feels good to be making some decent progress and everything turning out exactly like i had pictured it in my head. Cannot wait to drive it though! Have a private drift day on the 23 August that i would love to attend but i'm off to NZ for two weeks so i don't think i will make it unfortunately. Should be tuned in the next 4-5 weeks though

[iruvyouskyrine]

Okay so it's getting closer. Anyone know exactly what part of the fuel map i have to change to get this thing running. ECU is NISTune and it was running the Neo before it popped. Literally the only thing that has changed is it now has a 3 litre bottom end and will be running E85 not 98.

I don't want to go thrash the tits off it, just want to get it started and idling, will be keeping it in vacuum, better to be safe than sorry! Will go off to get tuned eventually just want to make sure nothing explodes before i take it to the dyno haha.

[Simon-S14]

which part of the map? all of it

your best bet is to contact your tuner and get them to put some sort of base mape in it for you to suit your bolt ons, but personally i'd have it towed to tuner and then let them do it all from scratch without the added stress of trying to drive something that runs mega rich

[Ben C34]

I changed none of it.

It will start and run fine as the afm does its thing .

Obviously get on a dyno and get a tune, but I drove mine untuned for weeks before I could get on a dyno.

For the e85 you will need to change the k factor. Refer nistune user guides etc.

Shortly mat should be releasing an update to allow flex fuel along with an injection scaler. Which is better than using k as k changes other things.

[iruvyouskyrine]

I don't plan on driving it anywhere, just up and down my driveway and get it idling in the shed to check everything. I was always going to tow it to the tuner.

Interesting to hear Ben, will crank it and see if it fires up, if it looks like it's not going to I will just leave it to the tuner.

[Simon-S14]

I changed none of it.

It will start and run fine as the afm does its thing .

Obviously get on a dyno and get a tune, but I drove mine untuned for weeks before I could get on a dyno.

For the e85 you will need to change the k factor. Refer nistune user guides etc.

Shortly mat should be releasing an update to allow flex fuel along with an injection scaler. Which is better than using k as k changes other things.

Nistune have released it now, ive seen it all in action and its all pretty impressive!

[iruvyouskyrine]

Speaking to Matt last night, he said the feature pack should be out for R34 next week.

Buuuuuuuut. I think I'm pretty set on going adaptronic now >_

[XKLABA]

Some thing else to think about, obviously to late for josh now, but by blocking a oil feed to the head you doing two things 1) creating uneven flow in the head ( not really an issue ), 2 ) creating an air pocket in the block under the plug ( can be an issue )

I am running two 1mm restrictors and a idle while looking through oil cap there is a good solid flow of oil coming out of the cam bearings

And while I'm here IMO a 3" exhaust on a 3.0 is to small, on my 2630 I went from a 80mm jap exhaust which had no restrictions in it ( I checked ) to a twin 3" in to single 4" and the difference is night and day, it is better every where