Jump to content
SAU Community

Cant Close R34 Bonnet Because Turbo And Engine Hits It

slow34

By slow34,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

slow34 Newbie

slow34

Posted
Posted

hey guys ive just bought a r34 gtt and its got a fibreglass bonnet on it currently but im pretty sure its illegal with the vents facing backwars to the windscreen. I got the stock bonnet with it but it wont close i was wondering if anyone had this problem and theres an aftermarket replacment bonnet of some sort or would it be easier to do some fiber glassing and fill in the holes or even perhaps go to a pannel beater and see if they can bend the stock bonnet a little bit. At the moment its hitting the cover for the timing belt and i think if i get it a bit lower then that it might hit the turbo wont know until i try. Any help would be appreciated thanks guys

post-133477-0-29116900-1394615583_thumb.jpeg

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Can always try washers between the bonnet and hinges to lift it a bit and adjust the latch. May help, may not seeing that the clearance problem is at the front, May not look the best either but will be good for engine bay airflow..May help. Cheers

  • Like 1
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

looked to me like a RB26 at a quick glance

unusual problem. Obviously why the other bonnet was put on.

Photo is deceptive - it appears the bonnet "should" close

without seeing for myself I got no help other than what XGTRX^ suggested.

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

/ReverseCowl/BognSpec.

That's odd.

Not an Rb30 bottom end is it? lol

Does your factory hood have the sound deadening on it?

if it does - remove it and see if that works.

I thought the same thing. Might be an RB30 bottom end?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

you can run without the top timing cover, just try removing it and you might get enough room. Washers on the back wont lift the front much at all. If its a 3026 there is not a lot of chance fitting but if it is a 25 or 26 block and is just hitting a little then taking the timing cover off could be enough.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

you can run without the top timing cover, just try removing it and you might get enough room.

Doesnt that kill the CAS? IIRC you need spacers so the CAS sits the same distance away as it would with the cover in place.

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

The 1st time I put my engine back together I did it without the front cover. When I fired it up I heard a funny noise which turned out to be the cas or one of the bolts rubbing on the timing gear.

So yes you need the cover or you can run spacers like I do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...