Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU,

I have an R34 GT-T with a high flowed turbo and Greddy profec spec b boost controller. Normally, both my stock boost gauge (part of the centre tri-cluster) and the greddy boost controller correctly read my boost, which the previous owner informed me was set to approximately 14 psi. He also told me that the vehicle had been tuned by toshi (If you're reading this, thanks!)

However, I've noticed that just recently the Greddy unit and my stock boost gauge both sit at 0, and won't budge no matter how hard I'm flooring it and at what gear. I feel that i also have lost my significant boost, as normally it comes on quite hard. I can still hear my blow off valve working, and the car still revs freely and drives nicely, but there just isn't the same amount of boost power.

I'm usually right into my vehicle DIYs, but honestly this has gone somewhat over my head. I had a cursory look under the bonnet to check that the boost gauge was not obviously disconnected, and i had a flick through the settings to make sure it wasn't just in the wrong mode.

I will investigate the sender unit, as per M35 Factory Boost Gauge Repair

However, this only made reference to the stock boost gauge, and not to actually controlling the boost pressure.

Would love to hear if anyone has any solutions from similar experiences where the boost pressure just dropped off and stopped reading overnight.

Thanks!

Mick

Edited by Lolrick

this could be a split in your hose that goes to your boost gauge and/or controller

Thanks, will get a mechanic mate to check for me at work tomorrow. I hoping that would be a relatively cheap and easy fix, to replace the hose?

Cuppla Bucks.

Music to my ears

So like I mentioned, the stock boost gauge sits at 0 (so it hasn't dropped to -1, but sits halfway at 0) and the Greddy boost control shows only 0, no matter what i do with the throttle. Can a split hose lead to showing no reading at all? Which hose would it be (i.e. where does it come from and where does it lead) As i mentioned, I still can hear the blow off valve, I just can't feel any boost

Cheers for the speedy replies, guys!

Sounds to me like a split hose, either from the manifold to the boost gauge or on the greddy solenoid itself, or one of the hoses has simply come off the nipple. Both of these problems are extremely common. Happened to me and from memory it cost me $4 for the hose. Could be free if the split is right at the end of the hose and you just cut that bit off

I've had someone mention that perhaps it's a fuse that's gone? Will investigate that as well - has anyone had any fuse related problems (and possibly a solution why it blew in the first place)

Additionally, I've noticed that so far the fuel gauge has not moved from above the full position - is this related?

Edited by Lolrick

Alright, so I had some guys at work investigate (work at a fleet leasing office, lots of qualified mechanics around). Turns out it was a tiny vacuum hose that had popped off, which comes off very easily (pictured, on and off. Wasn't near the boost controller, but near the manifold). Will check out autobarn and grab some silicon hose and clamps and update all of those hoses there. Both gauges working properly - I'm quite relieved!

However, the guys also pointed out some uncovered wires (pictured) - their suggestion was to shrink tube it. From the photos can anyone offer any advice, and tell me what that particular unit does? Should I crimp it as well?

Further, the fuel gauge still is not budging from 'full', which is kinda concerning as it has now been 5 days and nearly 200kms since i filled up. Anyone have any ideas for this?

post-126851-0-42041500-1394680674_thumb.jpg

post-126851-0-76776900-1394680901_thumb.jpg

post-126851-0-09061200-1394680905_thumb.jpg

post-126851-0-19765600-1394680907_thumb.jpg

Edited by Lolrick

If that plug is the wires for the power steering level sensor, then yes, insulate it. You won't be able to put heat shrink on it unless you get the pin pulled out of the plug first (heat shrink has to slide over the wire from one end) but you could always give it a good clean with some spray cleaner (to get all the power steering fluid wetness off it - bound to be there, never seen a dry one) and just use good electrical tape.

As to your fuel gauge......either gauge is broken, sender is broken or wiring is broken. Would have thought that would be obvious.

You will almost certainly have 1/2 tank or less in it now.

That's the wiring for the Stock Boost solenoid.

It's been cut and Earthed (in a previous life) for the High Boost Mod. (7psi fulltime)

Shrink wrap or electrical tape will be fine. It's only an earth wire so no biggy.

Fuel gauge sounds like like sender or wiring... perhaps the previous owner also tried to Earth the fuel pump and got the wrong wire.

(earthed the sender instead?)

That's the wiring for the Stock Boost solenoid.

It's been cut and Earthed (in a previous life) for the High Boost Mod. (7psi fulltime)

Shrink wrap or electrical tape will be fine. It's only an earth wire so no biggy.

Fuel gauge sounds like like sender or wiring... perhaps the previous owner also tried to Earth the fuel pump and got the wrong wire.

(earthed the sender instead?)

I'll probably ask around on the forums a little more before i rip out the sender and have a look - most people with sender issues have their gauge drop to zero once it gets halfway, whereas mine is stuck on full. I'm hoping there's an easier fix!

also with that high boost mod, that would have been before the boost controller was installed, correct? Boost mod just means there's no 5-7 variable psi?

Thanks!

yep. If that boost hose has popped off then I'd be clamping it or at least using a cable tie. If your boost gauge doesn't read vacuum off throttle as well as no boost under load then its definitely not a turbo boost problem. Shouldn't have felt much slower though.

Just make sure your wastegate line is attached properly, if that pops off you can do some more serious damage

I'll probably ask around on the forums a little more before i rip out the sender and have a look - most people with sender issues have their gauge drop to zero once it gets halfway, whereas mine is stuck on full. I'm hoping there's an easier fix!

also with that high boost mod, that would have been before the boost controller was installed, correct? Boost mod just means there's no 5-7 variable psi?

Thanks!

I wouldn't pull out the sender yet (even though it's good fun! :wacko:) but just have a look around the tank lid area for any "Extra" wiring.

Boost mod eliminates the 5-7 psi yes. Likely prior to the Boost controller.

I wouldn't pull out the sender yet (even though it's good fun! :wacko:) but just have a look around the tank lid area for any "Extra" wiring.

Do you mean the part where i open the fuel cap to fill the tank at the servo, or the part near the spare tyre where i access the sender?

Will post more photos later on when I've replaced the hoses, let the noobies like me see what the issues are. This forum is enormously helpful, but I find those without much prior experience benefit greatly from seeing a few photos along with guides/solutions!

Quick question, so the guy at Autobarn reckons it would be easier to cable tie the end, as the width of the hose is different at each end. I tried to cable tie it, but it still feels loose. Am i better of getting a clamp and replacing the zip tie?

Sounds like the hose is old and loose, or you have replaced it with a hose that is too large. A cable tie is usually more than enough to hold a vac hose tight.

If you replace any hoses, make sure it isn't the hose with the restrictor in it leading to the stock solenoid (if you are still using it), as otherwise your boost will skyrocket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...