R32 Gtr Wont Start

[DamienGTR]

Hi Guys,

I have a problem with my 89 GTR. Firstly it started with the boost dropping to 7 pounds, Then about 3 months ago it started breaking up when you hit about 4. Even if you are only easing on the throttle or when you casually get to about 130 on the freeway. Its a total cut out of power. breaking up, back firing and going no where. So I had a few friends get together one Sunday with beers and so forth and decided to see if we could put our heads together. We ended up finding a few vacume lines here and there that were crap that I replaced. I also replaced the whole blow off valve system. It was also running at the time an apexi computer, which I changed back to standard. At the end of the day it did nothing.

So after putting the problem here and getting heaps of good feed back. Everyone basically said it was either the fuel filter or the fuel pump. So obviously I started with the fuel filter. Once that was changed (which was the only thing I changed) I started the car and let it run for at least 10 minutes before moving it 5 meters before it almost stalled. I gave it a small rev and it almost stalled again. So I gave it a big rev and then that was it. It stalled and wont start at all now. You can start the car and it will start and rev up as normal but as soon as it goes to idle it turns off. I can keep it running if I keep giving it throttle (runs really rough and possibly back fires through the throttle bodies) but as soon as I stop it stalls. I then changed the fuel pump and that has also done nothing. I have had several people check to make sure I haven't unplugged anything but like I said, all I changed was the filter and that was the end of it.

Sorry for the long email, but I thought the more info I put, hopefully the more someone could possibly help.

Cheers.

[datsun_1600]

I haven't read your old thread, but if it was my car I would be checking the ignitor, ignition coils and CAS.

Jeff

[blind_elk]

How old is the battery? Skylines are notorious for their sensitivity to voltages, and old batteries behave in a way that tricks the ECU into thinking there is a problem.

Have you cleaned the AAC valve?

Have you had the injectors cleaned? (not a can of cleaner, but sonic cleaned).

Have you checked / swapped the (ECU) temp sender?

[Ben C34]

Change your plugs.

If it is running rich for any reason (such as temp sender as suggested), and then you let it idle for ages for some reason, it would have fouled the plugs.

[Sinista32]

srsly !

I understand how people want to do it themselves and that not everyone has the coin to take their car to a shop.

but if you either know Fark All or you have exhausted what little knowledge you have then get it to a trusted mechanic to diagnose through a process of elimination.

Has the ECU thrown error codes?

Sight and sound unseen and you expect the folks on here will hit the nail on the head.

You will get try this or that repeatedly until you have replaced or cleaned heaps of parts

Example:

You replace ignitor, coilpacks, CAS, spark plugs, coilpack loom with known working units or new ones and you still have an issue. (Remember to mark the position of the CAS prior to removal)

You clean/replace AFM's, AAC, IAC, - still an issue

Check and replace all vacuum lines, piping

Strayed from factory BOV's ? - still an issue

You replaced the APexi PFC with a stock ECU (What about the tune?)

Fuel pump, fuel filter - you still have an issue.

What about your actuators ?

Now my advice

You say you have checked all the piping. How thorough were you ?

From your first para it sounded to me like you popped IC piping or have a split in hose somewhere.

That will cause difficult to start, run ruff, little to no boost (unless you have a mafless set up - then it will feel like a car with no turbo's)

Edit: True plugs foul easily on idle for any length of time

Edited March 13, 2014 by Sinista32

[DamienGTR]

Probably should have mentioned that the car is stock except for exhaust and pods. The plugs were done when I had every one over. The battery is brand new also, as I have experienced what they are like when the battery is almost gone. The aac valve was cleaned very recently as I had to change the 3 little pain is the ass hoses at the back of the block. The apexi was set to a standard mode and was in the car for about 3 months without a problem. There were no error codes and the hand controller was saying everything was running normal.

I guess the reason I posted on here was for opinions, after all, I assumed this site was for this kind of thing as well as many others. Didn't really want to now toe it to some one and then it costs me 3k just to find out it was a simple part. I have done a crap load of work on this already by myself which would have saved me thousands so far. This was also why I had such an extensive description, even though the problems may not be the same thing.

Thanks for your help guys, I will check the coils, ignighter, CAS and injectors. I will let you know.

[-Tom]

Does the idle sometimes hunt between 500-2000?

I had a similar issue with my car which would buck and backfire like crazy between 1k - 3k rpm and it was impossible to drive (wouldn't go higher than 40km/h).

Followed this guide to open up the AFMs and resoldered the connections and it fixed the problem.

www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/

[datsun_1600]

^ Yes. Defiantly check this too.