Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Cutting Out. Not Overboost.

Tangleberry

By Tangleberry,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tangleberry Apprentice

Tangleberry

Posted
Posted

Ok so ive got a problem with my r33 gtst. While driving along the motor will randomly cut out. It feels like the petrol is getting cut off because if I roll for a couple of seconds with the clutch out it restarts. So I changed the fuel pump (bastard job) for a high flow one and put a new fuel filter in. Still doing the same thing. Any other suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440494-engine-cutting-out-not-overboost/
Share on other sites
Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Does it only do it when the car is a a certain temp? for example...

My old 94 Bluebird would consistently do this on the same 500m stretch on the way to work every morning. Turned out to be the CAS.

Tangleberry Apprentice

Tangleberry

Posted
  • Author
Posted

At first it only cut out above 3000rmp when coming on boost, checked all the vacuum lines etc, but then it started doing it under boost. Now it will do it under boost and it started cutting out afer a few minutes just sitting idling. Thats what made me think fuel.

Tangleberry Apprentice

Tangleberry

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looks like I might have found the problem. While trying to jump start the car it threw a big spark across the fuel rail from the back of the injectors. Now I just have to isolate it.

Tangleberry Apprentice

Tangleberry

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well that didn't work. :-( grrrrr. isolated the arcing and fixed the wiring there but the car is still cutting out after 2-3 minutes at idle. Can't even drive it to the mechanics to let them have a look at it. Running out of ideas. Is there anywhere else that could be blocking the line or something electrical that could be doing this? After cutting out I can't restart the motor straight away. It just keeps cranking over. But if I leave it for a couple of minutes it will re start.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • PranK
      Cleaning my wheels 😍

      By PranK · Posted

      I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...