Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everything seems to work OK. But the fuel gauge says the tank is full, it is only 1/4. Tacho does not indicate properly Temp gauge is on max and odo reads 999,999.

Help please Car is RS4.

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440567-electrical-problem/
Share on other sites

My gauges routinely play up - all go to 0 or max. A coupe of times I have disconnected the battery and reconnected - other times they have just come right next time I start the car. Hopefully your will come right.

Bob. You were right, but you are now wrong. Lasted three starts then poof!

Also tried disconnecting the battery but that did not work either.

Apart from checking earths the only other suggestion I have heard is to check the soldered connections on the back of the cluster and either generally wave a heat gun over it or using a very small soldering iron redo the connections.

check all ground wires.
ungrounding things plays havok like this.

i have had heasdlights do indicators and revs bouncing up and down and horns flashing other things. can make for an interesting drive.

wet weather and early moisture may be doing it. find all of them take them off, wire brush them down check for corrusion and rust then reconnect.

In addition to the stock grounding wires, I installed a few years ago a complete system that circumnavigates the engine bay. It goes up and down, back and forth. I checked it all today and it seems secure. Should I be looking elsewhere?

Maybe Bob's, KiwiRS4T, suggestion is the way to go? So how do I check to make sure it is valid?

Edited by 66yostagea

In addition to the stock grounding wires, I installed a few years ago a complete system that circumnavigates the engine bay. It goes up and down, back and forth. I checked it all today and it seems secure. Should I be looking elsewhere?

Maybe Bob's, KiwiRS4T, suggestion is the way to go? So how do I check to make sure it is valid?

There is a write-up in the DIY section but sadly the pics are lost:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/183421-led-installation-diy-tutorial/

Not done anything to it yet.

Today first start and it was all fup.Stayed that way for 30ks. Then out of the blue the fuel and water temp went back to normal but the speedo and tacho still had the dud readings. Now it is back to all fup,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...