Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

recently i purchased an r33 gts of a random. he "says" the car was running but as i got it, it didnt start and still doesnt. the positive terminal from the battery in the boot snapped off so he used a speaker cable to connect it ? im not sure if that has shorted anything out or stuffed anything up but i went to the wreckers the next day and purchased a whole new one, connected it up but still no start. i opened up the coil packs and spark plugs, they were all rusted and stuffed so i replaced them too nut still nothing, the car turns over but doesnt fully start! i sounds like it wants to but there is no spark so im thinking it is an electircal problem. can someone please help me.!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440686-33-gts-wont-start/
Share on other sites

just curious how much doe s a R33 GTS non running go for these days.

re the issue, start with basics

for a car to run you need spark, air and fuel.

check you have spark at each plug by removing it plug back into coilpack then hold close to the block and have some-one crank it, see if you get spark.

then when you first turn ignition (make sure it's quiet and no stereo on) on can you hear a small hum from boot area, ie can you hear the fuel pump working?

if not pull the fuel filter and crank does fuel come out?

past that get a lube mobile round to have a look?

Where do you live?

You say the car sounds like it wants to start, but there's no spark... Generally if it sounds like it "wants to", then there is spark in at least some cylinders but its not catching enough to become self sufficient.
From your description it could be anything, low voltage, buggered ecu, buggered coil pack loom, buggered CAS...

+1 to martin's suggestion of a mobile mechanic... otherwise you could be throwing a heap of money at replacing parts which are fine... (Alternatively if you have a mate with the same car, make it a doner car for a day till you see what fixes it)

I had the exact same problem but on a honda accord. Car sounded like it wanted to start but it just wouldnt. It ended up being a fuel pump. The fuel pump in the honda was under the car in the fuel tank, it was the worst job ever trying to replace it.

Luckily the fuel pump in your skyline is in the boot near the battery I believe? If it is in the boot, its an easy job to take it out. I dont think a fuel pump is expensive, I think around the 100-200 mark.

I reckon have a look at the fuel pump before you look at replacing ecus.

Have you checked fuel pressure?

Why do you think it's the ecu? That would be my last thing to swap.

What do you mean sounds like it wants to start? It fires or just cranks fast?

Is there spark when you remove a coil?

Seems like you are just taking a fairly random approach to this, and I recommend you pay someone who knows what they are doing as it will cost you less in the long run.

Why did the guy sell it?

ive done everything now, bought a new coil pack, checked to see if there was a spark and there is with every spark plug, bought new spark plugs, new cas, new ignitor, replaced all the relays and fuses.

there's a little light next to the steering wheel on the left, it doesn't flash or anything but im thinking maybe the guy who I got the car off installed a a mobiliser and didn't give me the button for it so it wont crank over, the car has central locking so thats another thing

someone please help i dont know what else to do, and Im taking it to an auto elec on monday but to save money id like to fix it myself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...