Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

recently i purchased an r33 gts of a random. he "says" the car was running but as i got it, it didnt start and still doesnt. the positive terminal from the battery in the boot snapped off so he used a speaker cable to connect it ? im not sure if that has shorted anything out or stuffed anything up but i went to the wreckers the next day and purchased a whole new one, connected it up but still no start. i opened up the coil packs and spark plugs, they were all rusted and stuffed so i replaced them too nut still nothing, the car turns over but doesnt fully start! i sounds like it wants to but there is no spark so im thinking it is an electircal problem. can someone please help me.!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440686-33-gts-wont-start/
Share on other sites

just curious how much doe s a R33 GTS non running go for these days.

re the issue, start with basics

for a car to run you need spark, air and fuel.

check you have spark at each plug by removing it plug back into coilpack then hold close to the block and have some-one crank it, see if you get spark.

then when you first turn ignition (make sure it's quiet and no stereo on) on can you hear a small hum from boot area, ie can you hear the fuel pump working?

if not pull the fuel filter and crank does fuel come out?

past that get a lube mobile round to have a look?

Where do you live?

You say the car sounds like it wants to start, but there's no spark... Generally if it sounds like it "wants to", then there is spark in at least some cylinders but its not catching enough to become self sufficient.
From your description it could be anything, low voltage, buggered ecu, buggered coil pack loom, buggered CAS...

+1 to martin's suggestion of a mobile mechanic... otherwise you could be throwing a heap of money at replacing parts which are fine... (Alternatively if you have a mate with the same car, make it a doner car for a day till you see what fixes it)

I had the exact same problem but on a honda accord. Car sounded like it wanted to start but it just wouldnt. It ended up being a fuel pump. The fuel pump in the honda was under the car in the fuel tank, it was the worst job ever trying to replace it.

Luckily the fuel pump in your skyline is in the boot near the battery I believe? If it is in the boot, its an easy job to take it out. I dont think a fuel pump is expensive, I think around the 100-200 mark.

I reckon have a look at the fuel pump before you look at replacing ecus.

Have you checked fuel pressure?

Why do you think it's the ecu? That would be my last thing to swap.

What do you mean sounds like it wants to start? It fires or just cranks fast?

Is there spark when you remove a coil?

Seems like you are just taking a fairly random approach to this, and I recommend you pay someone who knows what they are doing as it will cost you less in the long run.

Why did the guy sell it?

ive done everything now, bought a new coil pack, checked to see if there was a spark and there is with every spark plug, bought new spark plugs, new cas, new ignitor, replaced all the relays and fuses.

there's a little light next to the steering wheel on the left, it doesn't flash or anything but im thinking maybe the guy who I got the car off installed a a mobiliser and didn't give me the button for it so it wont crank over, the car has central locking so thats another thing

someone please help i dont know what else to do, and Im taking it to an auto elec on monday but to save money id like to fix it myself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...