Jump to content
SAU Community

33 Gts Wont Start

samgts

By samgts,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

samgts Newbie

samgts

Posted
Posted

hi guys,

recently i purchased an r33 gts of a random. he "says" the car was running but as i got it, it didnt start and still doesnt. the positive terminal from the battery in the boot snapped off so he used a speaker cable to connect it ? im not sure if that has shorted anything out or stuffed anything up but i went to the wreckers the next day and purchased a whole new one, connected it up but still no start. i opened up the coil packs and spark plugs, they were all rusted and stuffed so i replaced them too nut still nothing, the car turns over but doesnt fully start! i sounds like it wants to but there is no spark so im thinking it is an electircal problem. can someone please help me.!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440686-33-gts-wont-start/
Share on other sites
emts Grand Master

emts

Posted
Posted

just curious how much doe s a R33 GTS non running go for these days.

re the issue, start with basics

for a car to run you need spark, air and fuel.

check you have spark at each plug by removing it plug back into coilpack then hold close to the block and have some-one crank it, see if you get spark.

then when you first turn ignition (make sure it's quiet and no stereo on) on can you hear a small hum from boot area, ie can you hear the fuel pump working?

if not pull the fuel filter and crank does fuel come out?

past that get a lube mobile round to have a look?

Odium Grand Master

Odium

Posted
Posted

Where do you live?

You say the car sounds like it wants to start, but there's no spark... Generally if it sounds like it "wants to", then there is spark in at least some cylinders but its not catching enough to become self sufficient.
From your description it could be anything, low voltage, buggered ecu, buggered coil pack loom, buggered CAS...

+1 to martin's suggestion of a mobile mechanic... otherwise you could be throwing a heap of money at replacing parts which are fine... (Alternatively if you have a mate with the same car, make it a doner car for a day till you see what fixes it)

Gw2 Collaborator

Gw2

Posted
Posted

I had the exact same problem but on a honda accord. Car sounded like it wanted to start but it just wouldnt. It ended up being a fuel pump. The fuel pump in the honda was under the car in the fuel tank, it was the worst job ever trying to replace it.

Luckily the fuel pump in your skyline is in the boot near the battery I believe? If it is in the boot, its an easy job to take it out. I dont think a fuel pump is expensive, I think around the 100-200 mark.

I reckon have a look at the fuel pump before you look at replacing ecus.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Have you checked fuel pressure?

Why do you think it's the ecu? That would be my last thing to swap.

What do you mean sounds like it wants to start? It fires or just cranks fast?

Is there spark when you remove a coil?

Seems like you are just taking a fairly random approach to this, and I recommend you pay someone who knows what they are doing as it will cost you less in the long run.

Why did the guy sell it?

samgts Newbie

samgts

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ive done everything now, bought a new coil pack, checked to see if there was a spark and there is with every spark plug, bought new spark plugs, new cas, new ignitor, replaced all the relays and fuses.

there's a little light next to the steering wheel on the left, it doesn't flash or anything but im thinking maybe the guy who I got the car off installed a a mobiliser and didn't give me the button for it so it wont crank over, the car has central locking so thats another thing

someone please help i dont know what else to do, and Im taking it to an auto elec on monday but to save money id like to fix it myself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Ozdavroz
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...