Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So you tested the spark at the plug yeah and no spark, was that with a new plug or the plug out of the cylinder covered in fuel

If an injector is locked open it will give similar results and foul the plug, if there is no spark with a new or known working plug then it's electrical, so if you have changed plugs - coils - loom - ECU, then what's left, would have to CAS

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok thanks, I did a compression test awhile ago and numbers were good, but noticed the previous owner over filled the motor with oil and I drained some of it out and did a test again today and numbers did not look too good, I called it a day and I'm going to do another test tomorrow and see what that shows, I will do a compression test before and after I drop a cap of oil in the cylinder.

Get a LED test light and test what signals you have at the plug on the coil. You should have an ignition positive a ground and a pulse that is also ground on the externally igniter coils. Smart coils will have a positive pulse. Hope that is some help it's a very cheep and handy tool to have

Xklaba, the last compression test had shown that there was 135-140psi between all cylinders, but when I did that compression test it was really cold still I'm not sure if the cold would have effected the results by thickening the oil, bick033 I got a regular test light would that be fine? An oscilloscope is that just another word for timing light?

So I did a compression test and I got values starting from the firewall back, 105/140 after a cap of oil, 130, 150, 150, 145, 140. I didn't waste time putting a cap of oil in the cylinder that's at 130, or the rest of them

An oscilloscope reads the voltage signal wave and displays it on a sceen so you can see it to see what is getting sent to the ECU, completely different to a timing light

130 is low but not enough to kill the cylinder altogether, 140 is on its way to be low, 145 is exceptable, 150 is your norm with the tester your using, so you didn't put oil in any of the cylinders yeah ? What did you mean by 105/140 ?

With a normal test light it is hard to see a pulse because the filament takes time to fully go out so it will just look like it's on all the time it will be fine to use it will just look like a ground all the time when running.

Bick033 ok I'm going into town tomorrow and I will get one, I couldn't really put much time into the car today as that's all I've been working on all week, and this is my last few days off work and I will be gone away for awhile so I had to do some work around the acreage. I put the plug up agains the breather and couldn't see a spark, but I will go buy the oscilloscope tomorrow and try it

Bick033 ok I'm going into town tomorrow and I will get one, I couldn't really put much time into the car today as that's all I've been working on all week, and this is my last few days off work and I will be gone away for awhile so I had to do some work around the acreage. I put the plug up agains the breather and couldn't see a spark, but I will go buy the oscilloscope tomorrow and try it

Be aware that we're talking about a couple hundred $$ worth of oscilloscope here. And a reasonable amount of assumed knowledge to be able to use it. They're not going to help the uninformed/inexperienced. Definitely a techie's toy.

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
    • Mine's a bit bigger at 70x150mm roughly. The spots are flat, just can feel the edges if I dig my nail into it. I did fix some other other ones by both using my finger to sand that small spot (I'm a bit wary of doing this and creating hot spots and a bigger mess) and I also did sand over it flat and others, but this also worried me a bit because if I create an overall low spot on the panel on paint that is good.  Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as it's flat even if I can feel the edges, I can put filler because it will all be level once I sand it? I can see myself going in a circle after sanding guidecoat with 320 grit if for example the panel is flat with my hand but because I sanded the guidecoat I could have created a low spot again somewhere. Unless where I'm going wrong is what I mentioned previously where I didn't go low enough on the grits. It's 1 step forward and 2 step backwards here haha. I'll probably need to experiment with it more. Last time I go back to bare metal lol.
    • Thanks for the details mate , for me I think being a daily driven and happy with a basic tune (630Nm and 310kw) . Seems to be working well I just put on a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4 should help put the power down. I'm going to start looking a brakes and LSD in the future so I might reach out to you on options to upgrade the brakes. Cheers - Dee   
    • I have a HR34 GT... RB20DE My speedo doesn't work! The rest of the gauges seem to work, fuel and RPM. I did not notice if my odometer was going up when driving last.  Any ideas? Speed sensor? Hopefully atleast... Gauge cluster perhaps? Or is that unlikely because the other gauges are working?   Any insight is appreciated. This is a rather new to me car. Lol 
×
×
  • Create New...