Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thing was making better power before the ECU changed and everything else is the same except now the exhaust is better so clearly the issue is in the ECU where it be the settings or simple the tune

Clear some space in your inbox, I too tried sending you a PM

Yeh it was making better power at lower boost too (286rwkw @18-16psi) but it does drive much smoother now esp in low rpms before boost and noticeably more power/torque in low rpms too. Now 280rwkw @22-18psi it makes less power with a better exhaust and supposedly better ecu; so it can only be one thing wrong with the system, (not the ecu) need I say it, and yes dynos do read different too.

I will re visit them to get the power loss at downshifts sorted, have cleared my inbox, please try sending pm now, cheers

16kw difference? lets say 5kw could be any of the common variables that affect power on any given day..you're looking at a 11kw difference, this could be the difference in 1 or 2 degrees timing at wide open throttle.

the default Powerfc accelerate injector settings can richen up mixtures alot when you press the go pedal, they may have only been tuning wide open throttle? IMO full range torque is better than top end power any day of the week...especially on the street.

Have you thought about me while buying lube and condoms lately?

Yes, I bought the strawberry/banana flavored ones since your just so juicy. nohomo.

Anyways back on topic :ninja:

My issue was the CAS, but only because the engine got so hot to the point the block warped and the plastics around it melted. Otherwise not sure if its a usual wear and tear item

You can't 100% trust a dyno number

It's how it drives and the speed it pulls at the quarter mile is accurate

I went to latest rigoli dyno day and made 260kw was tune the week before at Unigroup 266kw

Seen a turbo civic the had a dyno sheet on the window tune by Jem and made 280 odd kw on rigolis dyno only made 224kw go figure

  • Like 1

By the looks of it, Its just bolted onto stock exhaust manifold and externally gated off rear housing. So the question is how much factory exhaust manifold can flow, and my evaluation result says 280rwkws on P98 unless excessive amount of boost.

The compressor design with huge impeller radius and plus antisurge housing makes it very un-efficient unless huge amount of boost given. In which you can not run those boost levels with a 65mm / 56mm turbine in a .63 rear.

My advise is get a proper exhaust manifold, a .82 turbine housing, a 50mm external gate. Then run heaps of boost.

My car made 280rwkw at 18psi, not 22psi, by the time it made the power after 7k rpms thats how much the boost had dropped. Will an ebc hold consistent 22psi till 7k rpms? Power might go up then but by how much is anybodys guess.

Ebc will only help to extent but if there's is too much backpressure blowing the gate open at high rpm

It's going to drop boost no matter also when the turbos out of flow it will drop but I doubt the turbos maxxed as my mate made 360kw with a 5558 on e85 sr20

A smaller wastegate may also help as there won't be as much pressure blowing on it as it's physically smaller

But those are only bandaid fixes which might only help slighty

But a larger rear housing and proper manifold is a proper fix if you want 300kw plus

I can see boost started to tapper as soon as peek was reached.

This can happen because the compressor is inefficient to feed the engine with that much of Air at given RPMs.

Or the exhaust manifold pressure is too high that blows the gate open. And when it has an external gate it means the EMP is very high.

Taken example given by Hy_RPM then it will be more likely that the turbine end is maxed.

There isn't a real lot of point of trying to hold the gate shut in this situations as it will makes the engine wants to pin. So you end up running higher boost on less timing and not alot of gain. Of course you can cure it with E85 or Q16 that marks your Ign timing closer to its peek torque output. Run a smaller gate will only increase EGT, in situations like this is very wrong.

Some thing like this is a perfectly balanced setup between induction and discharge. It is running an 38mm internal gate also:

ss2boost.jpg

SR is 4cyc engine with 8.5 compression. So it won't be copping with back pressure issues as what RB engines gets, generally makes a lot more power in a smaller turbine housing. So a .82 turbine will definitely make some changes to boost curve, and lot more power.

Yeah but your comparing yours to different setups

The other guy made the extra power from e85 and more boost and he has a more free flowing manifold and inlet plenum so can make use of the extra boost aswell

Your will be restricted by boost now as your on 98 so more boost will just ping

But waste your money elsewhere up to you

Tuner has already guided you in the right direction

There's a restriction somewhere but the cat and exhaust wasn't it as it didn't gain much once you changed them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have an old R32 in the shed that hasnt moved much in the last few years and probably should see the light of day. At one point I had a Nismo 1.5 centre put in the rear diff. It is a clunky nightmare POS of a thing on a good day. To make it less painful the initial torque setting has been put on the minimum (7.0kgf-m, mid is 9.5, high is 14) and the oil changed out to something more slippery. But it is still awful and ruins the vibe of the thing. So my questions are: Given I have the original parts sitting in a box somewhere would it be better to rebuild the thing again, reverting to more purity? Is there a standard kit or do you just go and replace the friction plates etc and shim it the way you like it. How much initial torque does the standard R32 rear diff have? Or does the Nismo disc kit offer a better solution - the caveat being the initial torque for both options appears to be higher than the clunky 1.5 way. There appear to be two Nismo disc kits: 3843S-RS520 for 8kgf-m. 3843S-RS521 for 12kgf-m.  
    • It is not a dual mass flywheel, so you will get some gear noise on a BNR34 unless you deviate from the OEM fluid spec and run a thick gear oil like what Nismo recommended for a while. Unfortunately I have never weighed the flywheel by itself prior to installation but it is not that light. It's probably an 8-9 kg flywheel. OEM BNR34 dual mass flywheel is like 14 kg which is kind of hilariously heavy. 
    • Got around to installing the Tomei Cam Cap Studs and the Hypertune cam baffles/splash guards. Unfortunately, I was not aware that the cam cap studs do not clear the stock RB25 internal cam cover baffles. Some research found a set from boostdoc which includes a replacement cam cover baffle and full length cam baffle + tools and fasteners. but I'm not keen on re-buying what I have already bought. So the plan is to take the hard route and modify the existing cam cover baffles to clear both the cam cap studs and the hypertune cam baffle plate. I assume there must be people who have gone through this even just to convert from cam cap bolts to cam cap studs? If so any tips would be appreciated. Otherwise I think I will mark where the cam cap studs foul, drill clearance holes in the cam cover baffle, and remove the cam cover baffle oil returns to clear the  hypertune baffle plate. I will also need to remove the baffle and drill and tap threads to bolt it back on so i can clean out any swarf. Fuel tank foam as extra cam cover baffling?
    • The incoming weather event seems to be affecting people in weird ways....🤣 And no, whilst there is some fancy engineering going on, I have no real interest in anything rotary really I had a Capella in the 90's, the rotary engine is way to temperamental, and extremely thirsty for my liking  If I won lotto and wanted to waste a ton of cash, a boosted K-swap would be what I would look at, until then, the N/A MZR2.5 will be at home in the engine bay of the NC A build like this, just without the idiotic street pulls and skids would be interesting to waste a huge amount of money on https://youtu.be/EgqAoVtUD1E?si=n3_umivrUPP8C9Cs
    • Now we're getting somewhere. All we need is a fractional rotor system so we can also have the RX3 and 5 back, and the world will be right again.
×
×
  • Create New...