Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seriously? This cannot be true. Think about it.

This really baffles me as well, but that's how it is, even when I bought the car - stock turbo, 12psi etc, it would do 100km/h in 5th at 3000rpms. Only now different story. And manual yes, Manuel Kasko, no.

Ok let's see if I can explain this good enough, for the sack of this discussion we will use 4th gear cause it is 1:1 ratio and we will assume it is a 4.11:1 diff ratio

So the crank turns 4.11 times which in turn turns the gearbox input shaft 4.11 times which tunes the output shaft 4.11 times which turns the diff input shaft 4.11 time then the diff reduces it at a ratio of 4.11:1 which turns the wheel 1 time, this NEVER changes unless you change a ratio in the drive line and is the same for every gear just with different ratios inside the gearbox applied

So revs v speed in any given gear will never change no matter how much power you throw at it

Ok let's see if I can explain this good enough, for the sack of this discussion we will use 4th gear cause it is 1:1 ratio and we will assume it is a 4.11:1 diff ratio

So the crank turns 4.11 times which in turn turns the gearbox input shaft 4.11 times which tunes the output shaft 4.11 times which turns the diff input shaft 4.11 time then the diff reduces it at a ratio of 4.11:1 which turns the wheel 1 time, this NEVER changes unless you change a ratio in the drive line and is the same for every gear just with different ratios inside the gearbox applied

So revs v speed in any given gear will never change no matter how much power you throw at it

Any of you Sydney lads welcome to go for a spin in my 34 on a weekend - we will do 5th gear at 2600rpms - seeing is believing............

Do Ron Ron, just so that I understand this properly: your car was running the stock ecu prior and doing 3000rpm @ 100km/h, then you changed to PFC and got it tuned and are now seeing 2600rpm @ 100km/h.

Is this correct?

Nistune I believe, the ONLY way the revs v speed can change is if you did the test in one gear then later did it in a different gear and some how forgot what gear you did said test in, diff won't change revs v speed nor will tyres as the speed sensor is on the output shaft of the gearbox, I also think the signal goes speed sensor - speedo - computer but could maybe incorrect on that one :)

Tyres diff all same, stock ecu and nistune I was doing 100km/h in 5th at 3000rpms, PFC now I'm doing 2600rpms -normal motorway cruising. And no gay 22" rims, running 18" RAYs wheels

Edited by rondofj
  • Like 1

stock ecu and nistune I was doing 100km/h in 5th at 3000rpms, PFC now I'm doing 2600rpms

He's answered it already. Stock ECU said 3k, as did the Nistune (coz its the same fking ecu). Now the PFC says 2600.

The PFC is reading the sensor voltage that little bit off and sending the wrong reading to the cluster.

WOW

SUCH DIFFICULT

MANY THINK

MUCH SOLVED

Maybe GTScot is right, I always have a funny feeling now that its a bit harder to reach 7000+rpms now cos the car is already going too fast etc, as compared to before. Maybe the tacho reading is off. Maybe its doing 7400rpms already and displaying as 7000 or say I have reached 7000 already when it is showing 6600.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have an old R32 in the shed that hasnt moved much in the last few years and probably should see the light of day. At one point I had a Nismo 1.5 centre put in the rear diff. It is a clunky nightmare POS of a thing on a good day. To make it less painful the initial torque setting has been put on the minimum (7.0kgf-m, mid is 9.5, high is 14) and the oil changed out to something more slippery. But it is still awful and ruins the vibe of the thing. So my questions are: Given I have the original parts sitting in a box somewhere would it be better to rebuild the thing again, reverting to more purity? Is there a standard kit or do you just go and replace the friction plates etc and shim it the way you like it. How much initial torque does the standard R32 rear diff have? Or does the Nismo disc kit offer a better solution - the caveat being the initial torque for both options appears to be higher than the clunky 1.5 way. There appear to be two Nismo disc kits: 3843S-RS520 for 8kgf-m. 3843S-RS521 for 12kgf-m.  
    • It is not a dual mass flywheel, so you will get some gear noise on a BNR34 unless you deviate from the OEM fluid spec and run a thick gear oil like what Nismo recommended for a while. Unfortunately I have never weighed the flywheel by itself prior to installation but it is not that light. It's probably an 8-9 kg flywheel. OEM BNR34 dual mass flywheel is like 14 kg which is kind of hilariously heavy. 
    • Got around to installing the Tomei Cam Cap Studs and the Hypertune cam baffles/splash guards. Unfortunately, I was not aware that the cam cap studs do not clear the stock RB25 internal cam cover baffles. Some research found a set from boostdoc which includes a replacement cam cover baffle and full length cam baffle + tools and fasteners. but I'm not keen on re-buying what I have already bought. So the plan is to take the hard route and modify the existing cam cover baffles to clear both the cam cap studs and the hypertune cam baffle plate. I assume there must be people who have gone through this even just to convert from cam cap bolts to cam cap studs? If so any tips would be appreciated. Otherwise I think I will mark where the cam cap studs foul, drill clearance holes in the cam cover baffle, and remove the cam cover baffle oil returns to clear the  hypertune baffle plate. I will also need to remove the baffle and drill and tap threads to bolt it back on so i can clean out any swarf. Fuel tank foam as extra cam cover baffling?
    • The incoming weather event seems to be affecting people in weird ways....🤣 And no, whilst there is some fancy engineering going on, I have no real interest in anything rotary really I had a Capella in the 90's, the rotary engine is way to temperamental, and extremely thirsty for my liking  If I won lotto and wanted to waste a ton of cash, a boosted K-swap would be what I would look at, until then, the N/A MZR2.5 will be at home in the engine bay of the NC A build like this, just without the idiotic street pulls and skids would be interesting to waste a huge amount of money on https://youtu.be/EgqAoVtUD1E?si=n3_umivrUPP8C9Cs
    • Now we're getting somewhere. All we need is a fractional rotor system so we can also have the RX3 and 5 back, and the world will be right again.
×
×
  • Create New...