Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Changing my OS Giken Quad to something a bit more forgiving as a DD.

The car is 338 AWKW and I do not expect to take it past 370 AWKW with the work I am having done soon , the quad is over kill for this HP.

Been looking at 2 types, Nismo C-spec twin copper mix and ATS Pro-Spec single , Carbon on carbon type, I think this is the model?

Any feedback or suggestions welcome before I have to confirm the work .

Nismo c spec.

Been in my car for 9 years, 40,000 kms, over 300 launches currently holding 472 rwkw. Good enough to fark up an OS GIKEN 5 speed. Lovely to drive.

Ordered yet? Lol

Fixed, :D

I have Exedy twin in my 32 which runs 11.1, has been there for 8 years of massive abuse and still going

Nismo twin was an Exedy twin

plenty of great clutches to get you there and hold for a long time.

Im currently running a OS giken TCS2B twin plate.. has the cool rattly twin plate sound, is ever so slightly heavier than the nismo twin pedal wise but thats because the nismo twin is too light for my tastes

Im also a big fan of the ATS carbon twin/triple plate as they both have a great pedal feel and progressive bite for daily duties.

These are both Puk style clutches where piggies Nismo is a full face organic disc.

Hope someone can understand my next question

I am changing my turbo from a T78 to a PT6262 and installing Poncams Bs, I wanted more power down low as it is a DD, the mechanic said it will spool much earlier and I will have a bit more torque down low.

I only have a problem on steep hill starts at times if I do not get it right , if ride it a little with the revs around 3k it is OK BUT not much room for error. Will this extra torque and earlier power from the new set up stop that lag when the clutch engages, even when ridding it, it lags.

Not sure if LAG is the right way to explain it, it feels like the revs die even if you are still trying to build them as the clutch engages?

I have not ordered anything yet but only have a short time before getting the other work done and have to make my mind up very soon.

Seems the C-Spec and the ATS carbon are both good choices and cannot go too far wrong with either of them.

Thanks for your collective help every time I need it :yes:

  • 1 month later...

post-52098-0-40385000-1399074197_thumb.jpgpost-52098-0-05167500-1399074491_thumb.jpg

plenty of great clutches to get you there and hold for a long time.

Im currently running a OS giken TCS2B twin plate.. has the cool rattly twin plate sound, is ever so slightly heavier than the nismo twin pedal wise but thats because the nismo twin is too light for my tastes

Im also a big fan of the ATS carbon twin/triple plate as they both have a great pedal feel and progressive bite for daily duties.

These are both Puk style clutches where piggies Nismo is a full face organic disc.

Hi Dave

Had the Turbo and Cams changed and the car ran great, the clutch was soooo much easier with a bit more low down power, a different car , you could feel it working like a car should not a heap of crap.

The brown is the new tune :yes:

I was really happy for 300Klms and lost the bloody tune :angry:

So have to start all over again, going to change the ECU , maybe Haltech or MoTech , do you know anything about them or recommend another brand for me to look into? :action-smiley-069:

Motec is over kill on a street car and costs a fortune to unlock every single option on them

Haltec will do everything you want and so will a few others, link is a good choice for the fact it goes into the original ecu case and looks factory

As long as they don't lock the ecu (password it) then as long as you have the correct software then you can't save it to your laptop

So if they do not lock it up with a password I can use the tune or whatever is put into the ECU?

Then you say if I have the correct password I CANNOT save it to my laptop, was this a TYPO ?

As I said, I am learning :)

Nismo c spec.

Been in my car for 9 years, 40,000 kms, over 300 launches currently holding 472 rwkw. Good enough to just an OS GIKEN 5 speed. Lovely to drive.

Ordered yet? Lol

Just drove back from Sydney after the mods and with some power down low it is easy to drive, I will see if I can post the new Dyno Tune

post-134126-0-55718000-1399183264_thumb.jpg

post-134126-0-88231800-1399183349_thumb.jpg

Yes sorry I meant to say you can save the tune to your laptop

I knew what you meant, I think I will get a cheap laptop to do only car stuff and not use it on the Internet as there are too many things that can stuff your computer up if you use the Internet, well I think so?

Afraid of the Internet? But on the Internet now! ;)

Not afraid of the Internet, just what it can let through to my computer and take a safer option , keep stuff that does not need the Internet away from it. :yes:

I have a seperate laptop for interweb banking and car tuning and another one for everything else, cause doesn't trust anything :D

Good thinking , I was going to use my laptop just for this but had to do a couple of OS trips and started using it for everything, now I cannot even log on to this Forum with my laptop (using PC now)and had to re register under a different name T R NISMO1 , so unless I have the shop clean it out I will get something else for banking and private info without going on other websites , paranoid , you bet :)

I clean 30 to 60 spams from my mailwasher every day, put them on my blacklist and spam list but they come again and again and it is bloody annoying :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...