Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMHO no. There are different causes of understeer/oversteer, not all of which can be tuned out by adjusting front to rear roll stiffness/weight transfer.

Question: What are the coils spring rates? Also - are you trail braking into corners?

In anycase you should match your sway bars to your spring rates. Soft arb's and stiff springs are not a nice combination.

For what it is worth my heap of sht has turn in oversteer in the wet but not in the dry. Why? Because of the massive rear anti roll stiffness needed to reduce understeer in the dry. But also it has no grip in the wet because of the camber it runs - which is matched to a dry track.

The whole of the answer is you need to address the lack of anti roll stiffness then your camber settings. In that order.

My spring rates are 7kg fronts 7kg rears. I don't trial brake into corners no.

I think we are kinda missing the point. My car use to under steer. Mainly push under steer which is probably really normal in a gtr. So I took it to "Acurate suspension" got a corner balance and told him my issue so he basically maxed out my front castor and front camber to -4.5. I certainly don't experience any under steer now but I just have an imense amount of oversteer. Question is. Will having that much front grip induce heaps of oversteer ??

Yuh,

Unlike RWD Skylines where you'll generally run a couple kg/mm more spring on the front, a lot of GTRs are set up even or slightly stiffer in the rear. It sounds retarded, but you do what you have to do.

Personally though I would try to set up a GTR so you didn't have to do that. Haven't tried, so not sure how much traction (get it? traction! I slay myself!) you'd get with a more conventional setup.

You get more traction with a more compliant rear spring rate. However it doesnt help you because you cant accelerate the car if you cant turn the corner in the first place. Plus with an attessa modifier gizmo you can put more torque forward and fix the problem anyway.

Lots of good advice from experienced track-ers here, great to see.

Personally I run 4.5o caster, 2.5o camber and 1mm toe out front, and 1.5o camber and 0mm toe rear. It gives a little oversteer on turn in under braking in tight corners but that is my preference. A little rear toe in eg 1mm should stop that too. I would definitely get bigger sway bars both ends too, it makes a big difference (keep the car flat, keeps more tyre on the road to a point)

If you have that much go you definitely need to put proper semis on it. You may find the original understeer wasn't so bad with better front grip (yes tyres won't change the balance of the car but you may find it was OK already).

I would also get an attessa controller on board, the Ruzic ones from Paul(mountainrunner) up there are the best, but the basic ebay ones will also make a difference. Also depending on the age of the car and xfer case condition, consider getting it rebuilt instead as a controller can only make the most of what the xfer case can manage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dragging some reo behind a ute or trailer will smooth out a dirt road, I've used reo a few times to do unsealed road maintenance when we didn't have any plant available  It's best done when the dirt is wet though, and then you just let it dry out for a day to harden up For wetting the dirt I've used some 44 gal drums in a ute or trailer, and a water pump connected to a hose with a old sprinkler tied to the reo to wet the material down whilst spreading Basically just drive slowly up and down the road a few times dragging a few sheets of reo wired together with the sprinkler wetting it all down as you go
    • I did a motokhana years ago with ??Sydney Sporting Car Club???, it was on a grassy paddock and was heaps of fun, I think it was north west Sydney IIRC The old R33 boat was covered in grass and dirt, but nothing that a good wash and detail didn't fix And thinking back, when SAU did the airstrip run in Goulburn years ago, where the old 33 won highest RWD MPH, the quickest RWD ET on the airstrip, and best paint IIRC (before the runs down the airstrip) the damage to the rear quarters from stones flicking up required them the get a respray  I would definitely do a grass motokhana again in the MX5 Who knows someone that owns a farm with a big empty paddock  Liability these days is a big issue though
    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
×
×
  • Create New...