Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking for some advice.

Recently blew both sides of my stock r33 turbo (ceramic dump side, nylon compressor), which destroyed my engine etc etc now my life is ruined..

Anyway time to rebuild on a budget, have managed to find everything i need for an affordable price but this would mean the turbo that would go in would be the same thing that blew up on only 10psi with pretty much standard everything. note: replacement stock turbo is in perfect order but has 130,000 kms on it..

How do i either make this turbo more reliable, or can anyone suggest a replacement turbo that would be more reliable, something of simular size as i cant really afford a retune at the moment. preferably the cheapest and most reliable option (yes i know that doesnt really exist)

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440943-stock-33-turbo-substitute/
Share on other sites

2nd hand highflow is the only cheap and reliable choice. You need to keep the same basic turbo to make it trivial to bolt and plumb up, but get rid of the fragile bits.

If you want to buy something new, then I would suggest the following plan. Sell the good R33 turbo you have just bought. Put that money, plus some more, plus the core of your dead turbo in a box and send to Hypergear. His highflow job is only $860. Well worth it.

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=69

I agree with GTS boy. however if you run the HG highflow you have to drop boost a bit below 10psi on the stock ECU.

This turbo moves more air for the same boost which means that 10psi on the new turbo means more air than on the stock turbo. This WILL give you issues on the factory ecu.

I ran this turbo on the factory ecu while I was waiting on parts; it wouldn't run well on anything higher than 8psi

edit: just remembered I had MAJOR creep issues from 5k RPM and upwards. that turbo on the factory wastegate physically couldn't run LESS than 12-13psi up top

Edited by Blackkers

can definitely make it run less then 10psi with smaller compressor and turbine profiles. Depending on what the plans are, if injectors and ecu are on the list then have the larger profile and don't thresh it till the the mods installed and car tuned.

thanks guys,

would everyone all agree not to buy a brand new Chinese branded one? at this stage i think it would still be better than a used standard one

LOL... stock ones were designed to last a few hundred thousand kms in factory form, i.e. stock intake, stock boost, stock exhaust

The dimsim ones were designed to be used as DIY jet engines or door stoppers or bolted to Hondas.

GR-1_Turbojet_Banner.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh and my rear arms may need some attention too.    
    • Bushings are almost done. Check the date stamp 😂 these are likely the original bushings with 27 years and 243ks on them.     Was too dark to get a pic of the worst one.
    • Porous blocks are a known issue on something like a Porsche M96, it's not really something I've ever heard of on an RB26. It's possible what people thought was a "porous block" was really a cracked block that they just didn't spot the crack on.
    • This is a controversial subject really, the whole power vs fun thing I mean And this is the main reason I got back into a MX5 Of the last few notable daily cars I've owned whilst I have frequented SAU R33 GTS-t: fun, but because I'm a idiot I modified well past a reliable fun car and ended up hating it, although that was my fault because I tried to have a daily cruiser and race car all in one, the family called it the sometimes car, because sometimes it was working, sometimes it was broken, gladly sold it NB MX5: brilliant car, thrashed the Bejebus out of it, but, again, was stupid and deleted the air con, power steering and stripped the interior out, whilst still fun, and reliable, and super cheap on consumables, it was not a fun place to be going on long cruises, I did love it, but basically every family member hated going anywhere in it, sadly sold it 2015 WRX STI: soulless thing that looked like your average Kia sedan and had that horrible boxer engine with glass ringlands, the family did like it though, that thing was one of my stupidest purchases and I still regret it 2017 Toyota 86: 😪 if I didn't crash it, I would probably still have it, it was a fun little thing, even with that horrible boxer engine, the family did like it, the only reason I didn't get another 86, or, BRZ was the boxer engine, I should have learnt after owning the STI, but I'm a idiot VX SS: great cruiser, fits the whole family, and was fast as.....in a straight line, but a big fat thing, so no enjoyment throwing it around corners, the family was unimpressed with the whole boganness of if, but they did admit it was a comfy place to sit on long cruises As for the NC, I feel it is perfect for what I want, or need out of of a car, whether I'm cruising the Hwy, back roads, twisties or peak hour traffic, the Mrs doesn't mind driving it either, or cruising in it as well, although she does bump her head of the roof nearly every time she gets in, which is farking hilarious, and the kids love taking it for a thrash as well So basically, I've had constantly more fun, and way less headache and heartache, both on the track and on the street, in low powered cars,  go figure.....LOL One thing though, the Mrs has stated that the cams have made the exhaust sound much louder, which they have, but it doesn't bother me, in fact, I actually like it, but, to negate any future comments from the Minister for War and Finances I may look at some changes to the rear muffler set-up to drop the volume down a tad to appease her when we are out and about in it
    • You will need to extend the turbo inlet pipe somehow, which could/might be done with silicone/rubber pipe, but might need steelwork, depending on your intake. And you will need to change the pipework on the outlet in teh same way, but this is more likely to need steelwork.
×
×
  • Create New...