Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had no issues with my stock dash lights, other than the dull yellow colour, so I decided to change them to bright white LED's.
I purchased these LED's from eBay.
I installed them, and for about a week they worked fine with no issues and I am very happy with the colour, but then 2 of the 5 lights started to flicker.
Recently a 3rd light is starting to flicker as well. Progressively this has gotten worse.
When I say 'flicker' I don't think they turn off completely, but they sporadically dull and then light up again.
This only happens when the car is running. They work fine if the car is off.

Not sure if I plugged the looms back in poorly or I knocked a wire loose, or if these eBay LED's are just crappy quality.

Just wondering if anyone could help me out on discovering the issue. Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440984-dash-lights-flicker-r33/
Share on other sites

Sounds like the connection in the socket is not strong. Might need to pull them out and tweak the legs so they connect better.

One of mine sometimes takes a while to kick in but I CBF pulling the cluster out again... one day.

Had no issues with my stock dash lights, other than the dull yellow colour, so I decided to change them to bright white LED's.

I purchased these LED's from eBay.

I installed them, and for about a week they worked fine with no issues and I am very happy with the colour, but then 2 of the 5 lights started to flicker.

Recently a 3rd light is starting to flicker as well. Progressively this has gotten worse.

When I say 'flicker' I don't think they turn off completely, but they sporadically dull and then light up again.

This only happens when the car is running. They work fine if the car is off.

Not sure if I plugged the looms back in poorly or I knocked a wire loose, or if these eBay LED's are just crappy quality.

Just wondering if anyone could help me out on discovering the issue. Thanks guys!

Cheap LEDs causes this to happen my advice is to pull them all out and buy some decent LEDs that are rated to 14-16V i recommend ZPE (Zero Point Electronics) on eBay also an SAU member i believe.

Edited by DarkRyda
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...