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I have seen on one of Robs builds he mounted it in the boot on that black bracing. I'll see if I can dig up some photos tonight.

Thats alot of extra engine oil to add and a long line going back with engine oil in it

Do you have enough room between the a/c condenser and intercooler. Also maybe under one of the guards in front of the wheel might work

I thought you would have to remove the condensor to do that I will look into under the guard cheers do you have one fitted

hey guys im fitting a accuusump i want to know what spec press sw i need to use ?

The three valves we have are 24-271 (20-25 psi EPC switch) 24-273 (35-40 psi EPC switch) and 24-275 (55-60 psi EPC switch)

which one guys as above in thread im running tomei oil pump

Your also paying him a lot of money for building your engine.

I would be seeking and using his advice even if it means it takes a bit longer to hear back from him.

True I am but I have been firing away too.many questions for the minute going to give him a call today for the first time

just a quick question with running a single turbo with ex gate do i need to run the factory bovs and pipeing ?
just get some custom piping made up. It will look 100 times better. As for the bov did you want it plumbed back in or atmo I have a turbo smart v port under the drivers side guard right under the head light facing up so if you look from under the car it's hidden. Also what ecu are you using one with a map sensor it's nice to scrap the afm also.

Im running a pfc djetro with twin maps yes . I will just plumb it back into the outlet on the turbo then just wasnt sure if they both were required the stock bovs are trust and proven I wont change out for aftermarket no need.

Im running a pfc djetro with twin maps yes . I will just plumb it back into the outlet on the turbo then just wasnt sure if they both were required the stock bovs are trust and proven I wont change out for aftermarket no need.

I'm also using the pfc dejetro but I'm only using one of the map sensors the other I wired to be used for boost sense. I would just use both of them twice as much air to flow.

I'm also using the pfc dejetro but I'm only using one of the map sensors the other I wired to be used for boost sense. I would just use both of them twice as much air to flow.

Im running both of them they are already plumbed in ao I will leave them there. What type of car have you got and engine specs

Im running both of them they are already plumbed in ao I will leave them there. What type of car have you got and engine specs

I have a r33 gts-4 did have a rb26 conversion but now have a 25 soon to be 30 also. It's converted to just rwd now as it was planed to be a drift car but anyway engine specs are

S2 rb25det

6 boost with tial 44mm gate

KD t67 turbo

Full custom 3inch turbo back exhaust

Fredy plenum

Aeroflow fuel rail all speedflow fittings I'd 725cc injectors soon to upgrade to 2000cc

044 fuel pump surge take ect

Turbo smart fp800 fuel reg

S90 billet throttle body

Pfc dejetro with hand control,datalogit,boost control and wide band

GTR intercooler all 3inch cooler piping

Ls1 coils

Road tuned on e85 safe tune no knock over 15 ( I don't like to go over 30 using the pfc knock reading) and pretty rich will put it back on the dyno soon to get some numbers.

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    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
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